pretty happy and exciting to try new things.   and when you drop $1,500 on something, it better work!  haha… i’m not sure yet if it was worth the investment.  give me a few more days and i’ll know.   but for now, i’m going faster than ever so if i have to pay money for speed, i’m 100% in!   ok everybody, this is my dream bathroom.  i would love to use it, but i wouldn’t love to clean it.  haha… good to see Japanese heavy locals here in Hawaii.  i still can’t tell you where this legend surfer is from, but i can tell you that it’s my favorite barrel in the whole world.  i’m a very lucky guy to be able to surf there, and i want to keep it that way so please don’t ask me.  i respect all the local there and i respect their rules.  thank you guys always for sharing your sacred wave with my for the past 27 years.  i owe all you guys lots of barrels.  so when you come to Hawaii, you can have any wave i paddle for… Nao-san still getting me jealous by sending me photos like this… and very sacred cultural spots in Japan.  so amazing…speaking of culture.  some European pro snowboarders came to Hawaii and tried to snowboard Mauna Kea.  it didn’t snow so they decided to snowboard it anyway.  really?  so they carved up and down the sacred mountain and posted it on social media.  Mauna Kea is a very sacred place for Hawaiians.  people here are pissed off and i don’t blame them.  Hawaiians killed Captain Cook and ate him.  so i have advise for the Europeans that posted that on social media,  “i wouldn’t come back here if i were you.”    there is no excuse for disrespecting anyones culture like this…

Local Motion Maki-san @ Diamond Head.  Yesterday afternoon fun!!!

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore 2-4′ and clean.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.  Strong winds coming.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

driving to the beach this morning watching the police arrest a guy.  what a start to a day in Paradise…

Ueda-san slept well last night and was in full power mode this morning.  surfing so good!

Mayumi-san super smooth and having the longest rides of the day.

this is absolutely perfect surfing.  good style and good smile.

and when you’re smiling, you’re relaxing.  just like this…

i just love riding on the side yelling like a sargent to a solider.  haha…   good job Ueda-san and Mayumi-san.  see you guys again tomorrow for more boot camp!

a wise man once told me “Kirby, you can’t take your money to your grave.  so enjoy your life and buy what ever you want.”   i took his advise today and bought a very expensive foil.

then i went out to Diamond Head and had the time of my life.  i’m about 90% back to normal, and 100% happier than ever.   life is good again…