totally forgot to upload this. it was a story about a little kid named Seth Moniz and how he stole the show at the Billabong Pipeline Masters…

with world ranked #5 surfer Owen Wright in his heat, Seth knew he had to go big. just by this take off, you know he’s thinking of how to get that big score.

first getting a very nice barrel, he positions himself perfectly.

then when most of the top surfers in the world would pull out, Seth had other plans. this is where it starts.

you would think this is crazy because how fast and how high he was flying.

then Seth torques his body and started his full rotation. this is where you see the commitment.

both feet planted on the board, everything is coming into place.

right here, his eyes are looking for the landing spot.

he not only lands it perfectly, he lands on the wave coming down.

stays on his board and rides out of it.

this is Seth’s pose when he’s feeling like he’s the world champ! Seth pulled off the 4 most biggest airs of 2018 in the world!
1. Waco, Texas.
2. Huntington, California.
3. Chiba, Japan.
4. Pipeline, Hawaii.

the water view of that same air. i just love it!

it’s 2019 now and i feel like it’s Seth’s year to make the biggest upsets in surfing history. watch out world champs because this kid is coming for you!

Cool and golden mornings all week long…

Good morning 6:30am.

North shore 2-4′ and junky.

Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.

Diamond Head waist high and clean.

Cold North winds at 20mph.

Sunny and cool.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderfully day!

last night was a night to celebrate 2 of my very close friends birthdays . started out in Waikiki at 6pm with some hot nabe and a few beers. amazing food and hilarious conversation. talking about other friends, surfing, and even high school girls fighting. laughing out loud all the way. ate shave ice and headed out of the city lights of Waikiki.

8pm we arrive at a place where we won’t see anyone else we know. quiet, peaceful, outdoor, and taking in the cool fresh air. one tequila shot leads to another and next thing you know, we’re all feeling so fine. the main topic of our conversation was about friendship. how we’ve all become closer to each other. how we trust each other. and how nothing can come in between each other. crazy things will happen in the outside world, but we all know it won’t affect our inner one. more laughs, more fun, and more shots. time flies as the clock strikes midnight. it was time to leave…

i wake up this morning with a huge smile on my face. thought about how beautiful last night was. of the 6 hours we had with each other, none of us was on their phones. no texting, no Instagram, and no bullshit. it was just a circle of friends giving each other 100% attention and continues eye contact. none of us didn’t even take a single photo. we were just having so much fun living in the moment. it was kind of cool and made me realize how important friends are, and how not so important social media is…

anyway, want to wish again a Happy Birthday to Carter and Mari-chan! i wish you guys the most wonderful year ahead…

and yeah, there are no photos for this post because nobody took one. haha…