The early bird gets the morning worm…

Good morning 6:20am.

North Shore 2-4′ and coming up today.  Bumpy conditions.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head waist high and best in town.

North winds at 20mph.  Very cool.

Sunny and cold morning.

Have a wonderful day!

more and more cars are getting broken into these days. please hide your iPhones, wallets, watches, and all valuables when you park somewhere. if you don’t, this will happen.

when i went to look at Diamond Head this morning, i couldn’t believe how small the waves were. in fact, i haven’t seen it this small in years! i ended up going somewhere else and foiled some perfect little barreling waves. can’t tell you where though…

then went back to Diamond Head this afternoon and it was even more flat. not even breaking!  this is very unusual…

as for an update on my foot, it’s getting much better. i’d say i’m up to 75% as of now. can’t surf the way i want to, but at least i can ride waves.

and i wish i could be diving too but i don’t think it’s a good idea. so for now, i just have to look back at my blue water dive collection. this was me in Okinawa chasing that mahimahi ahead. i really miss this kind of hunting!

so for now, i’m going to start a little project. i was in a hotel in Yokohama and saw a great idea. now i’m going to build one in my house. i’m going to go buy the wood and materials tomorrow!

totally forgot to upload this. it was a story about a little kid named Seth Moniz and how he stole the show at the Billabong Pipeline Masters…

with world ranked #5 surfer Owen Wright in his heat, Seth knew he had to go big. just by this take off, you know he’s thinking of how to get that big score.

first getting a very nice barrel, he positions himself perfectly.

then when most of the top surfers in the world would pull out, Seth had other plans. this is where it starts.

you would think this is crazy because how fast and how high he was flying.

then Seth torques his body and started his full rotation. this is where you see the commitment.

both feet planted on the board, everything is coming into place.

right here, his eyes are looking for the landing spot.

he not only lands it perfectly, he lands on the wave coming down.

stays on his board and rides out of it.

this is Seth’s pose when he’s feeling like he’s the world champ! Seth pulled off the 4 most biggest airs of 2018 in the world!
1. Waco, Texas.
2. Huntington, California.
3. Chiba, Japan.
4. Pipeline, Hawaii.

the water view of that same air. i just love it!

it’s 2019 now and i feel like it’s Seth’s year to make the biggest upsets in surfing history. watch out world champs because this kid is coming for you!