January 30, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Going diving today with my 2 nephews Joshua and Seth Moniz!

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore 3-5′ and getting big tonight.  Junky conditions.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

North winds at 20mph.

Rainy morning becoming sunny.  Very cool day.

Going family diving.

Have a wonderful day!

Love your Family and Friends…

it’s unbelievable how cold it’s been all across America!   this guy got a ticket for driving his car like this.  haha…  as for Hawaii, it’s been the coldest of the year so far but still very warm for me.  people here don’t know what cold is.  this is my morning drive and when i see the ocean, i know exactly what’s going on for the day.  cool and beautiful!   pulled up to Diamond Head and there were only 4 surfers out.  grabbed my foil and had the time of my life!   yesterday evening, a speeding drunk driver in this Ford truck ran over pedestrians on Ala Moana Blvd.   he killed 3 people instantly and injured 3 more.  one from America, one from Hawaii, and one from Japan.  omg!  this is the local guy that was killed.  a Doctor who just got married and had his whole life ahead of him.  went out for an evening jog and never made it back.  it’s so crazy how someones life can be taken away just like that.   we are all living in a freaky and crazy world these days.  you just never know when your time will come.   i feel so sad for this guys family and friends…

Fire feeding the Fire

 one year ago, it was Joshua Moniz in the spotlight.  winning the prestigious Volcom Pipeline Pro was a dream for him.   everyone knew this kids day will come.  and it sure did… when Joshua was getting interviewed in front of the world, i looked at Seth and saw he had mixed emotions.  one part of him was happy for his older brother, but the other side of him was pissed because he knew it could have been him.  i’ll never forget that look in his face.   i looked at him and said “hey, don’t worry, your day will come.”   and ever since that day, Seth was on FIRE!   and now, he’s on the world tour!  coach and dad.  hey boys, are you ready for the first WCT contest in Australia this April?  better get ready because i’m going too!   hopefully we can all be hugging like this.  haha…