Big and stink!

 missed you boys!  wish i could have been there surfing with you guys.  i miss Taiwan so much!   yeah Mori-san!   i love to watch you living your dream life!   omg, i love these!!! thank you Matsu for the photos.  and miss you lots Kimura-san!   grass fed T-bone steak.  no hormones, no chemicals, and no bullshit.  just pure old school beef that will blow away any Wolfgang or Ruth Chris steak.  this is my dinner tonight!   even thought this is not my private jet, it feels like it is.  and the more i sit in the front row, the more i’m learning about how to fly an airplane.  someday…i’ve free dove and surfed almost all of this area.  so flying over it and seeing all my secret surf spots and dive spots is exciting… and flying over Mayuki and seeing my baby makes me excited too…  there isn’t a more beautiful day to be in the air.  i didn’t want to come down…did you hear about the dead whale carcass floating off Ala Moana yesterday?  yeah, 15 big tiger sharks were eating it.  so when people tell me there aren’t any tiger sharks off Waikiki, think again.  this is off Ala Moana Beach Park and if you think that sharks can’t swim to, you’re not too smart…

Secrets in Hawaii…

Good morning 6:45am.

North shore 2-4′ and coming up VERY fast.  15′ by tonight.   Clean conditions.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.   Some bigger sets.

Diamond Head shoulder high and super clean.

No wind so perfect morning conditions.  Onshore in the afternoon.

Clouds, sun, and warm.

Have a wonderful day!