Gabriel Mendina did what only a few could ever do at Pipeline. he rode it perfectly both left and right. backdoor is really hard to surf backside but he showed the world how to do it. he was in sync of the ocean, he was in rhythm, he was unstoppable. and that’s why he’s the 2X Pipeline Masters Champion, and 2X World Champion. so Seth, you shouldn’t feel down because you lost to Gabriel. your turn will come…
it was so cool watching all the kids running in the water to grab half of a board when a competitor broke one. and there were plenty of that…
and like every year, the surge comes up and takes everybody by surprise. lots of wet bags, lost slippers, and water damaged electronic equipment.
when Seth was getting ready for Mendina’s heat, i wanted to take a photo of him being super focused. i tried to sneak a shot, but he caught me. haha…
this morning started off with a golden sunrise. it was so beautiful to see leaving my house…
surfed perfect waves at Bowls! a new South swell!!! the biggest in over a month and the few people out were so happy this morning! then us happy surfers went to eat lunch. Nao-san with the prime rib special!
i waited 2 months for this pigs feet soup! the best i’ve ever eaten…
then went back out this evening with Michi-san. the waves were super good again. in fact, i think it was still coming up so tomorrow should be amazing!
drove home after the sunset. another very satisfying and happy day in Hawaii!
thank you Michi-san and Michi-san Mama for the treats. i just ate some somen for dinner. sooo goooood!
now i’m going to upload the photos i took today, sip on a glass of whisky, and fall into a deep sleep…
