Bowls to DH to Bowls


want to thank Shin-san for sending me this photo. yes, this is how you enjoy Hawaii!

you’re not going to believe it but the duck was there today too!!! he was waiting for us!

wanted to have him fly next to me when i was foiling. that would have been cool.

Nao-san was almost flying! the waves were good again today!

half the size as yesterday but twice the amount of surfers. sorry guys, a day late…

good to see the local surfer girls having fun…

check out this photo. i took off behind Nao-san, foiled way in front of her, and took this shot! freaking amazing drone angle! but now that i think about it, “if i fall, Nao-san would run me right over!” omg!!!

my foil is working better than my shortboard. i can go faster, longer, happier, and pump all the way back out to the lineup!

another amazing day of Boot Camp! you’re doing so good girl!

wanted to eat something healthy so went to Andy’s and ate something healthy.

the hot pastrami sandwich is the best! this will make anybody happy!

then went to check out Diamond Head right after because i had a feeling it was good. and it was better than good! it was as good as it gets!

went hiking down the trail and had such an amazing session. timed it perfectly because hardly anyone was out!!!

then went to pick up Michi-san right after and went back to Bowls. perfect surf and perfect surfing again!

three rounds and a very long day. one glass of fine whisky and i’m going to bed. tomorrow will be another amazing day in the ocean. can’t wait…

December Duck Stories


ok, back to yesterday morning. i had my foil so got this drone like shot of Nao-san!

look who came to say hello to us?

yes, the same duck that i saw last time! isn’t that crazy?

if Nao-san went back to Japan and told her friends that she was out surfing with a duck, nobody would believe her. i sure wouldn’t…

forget the duck, it was back to surfing. look how perfect the waves were! and perfect surfing too!

yes, the last time the waves got this big was back in October. nobody knew except us…

and a few local girls like Shea…

how did somebody’s leash get stuck on the reef like this? luckily there wasn’t still a foot attached…

so many people are congratulating me about Seth’s performance. this is Larry Rios who was once a WCT surfer that traveled the world. so he knows how hard it is to get on the WCT tour. and Larry is a super big supporter for Seth. Hawaiians cheering on Hawaiians. i love it…

Michi-san and i surfed our sunset session. it was so beautiful and the waves got bigger than the morning.

look how beautiful the conditions were! and the surfing too!

good job Michi-san! another day of Boot Camp this evening so you be ready!!!

December 18, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Yesterday: Amy@Sunset

Good morning 6am.
North shore 4-6′ and coming UP fast! Clean conditions.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect. Little South swell continues.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Light winds so perfect conditions.
Sunny and cool morning. Warm afternoon.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!