December 9, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Mouth watering oyster ramen… So good!

Good morning 6:40am.
North shore 6-8′ from the North. Junky conditions.
No Pipeline Masters today.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

Ala Moana Surf: Best in a Month!


Park-san and i had a wonderful time yesterday! he was surfing so good!

the waves were so beautiful. my local friend Stu said this was the best wave he caught in a month!

and since Stu surfs out there every single day, you can believe him. as for me, i’d have to say it was the best in a month too. perfect and nobody!

Park-san just loving life like usual.

amazing and long beautiful rides.

empty lineups and happy rides. good luck in tomorrows Honolulu Marathon Park-san!

been foiling 2x/day because now i have some motivation to get better. and the only way to get better is to practice.

and learning from your mistakes. haha. i fell off the wave and my board didn’t want to stop. this is the reason i tell all my friends to get out of the way if you see a foiler taking off. now do you understand why?

Pipeline Giant Killer


experimenting with my equipment is so fun. making minor adjustments is making major improvements. my friend Rod took my mast to the machine shop and now my foil works 10x better! so stoked!

so stoked to surf with Park-san yesterday. we caught some amazing waves! my local friend at Bowls told me that yesterday was the best day in a month! score!

spent some quiet time having a cold beer and watching the sparkling Friday night fireworks.

did you see this photo circulating on the internet? a Hawaiian Monk Seal with an eel in his nose? haha. scientist can’t figure it out. i’m not a scientist but this Monk seal was probably playing around looking in the wrong hole…

i was once a photographer. one big reason i became one was to document my niece and nephews surfing history. it’s photos like this that are totally priceless to me. now, the whole world is watching this kid, but before nobody was. looking through my lens 12 years ago, i already knew this kid was going to be on top. pure determination and no fear is Seth’s outstanding qualities. this was right before his heat at big Haleiwa. i documented his every move as a kid and someday i’ll share it with you. but for now, if you didn’t hear the big news yet, Seth got a wildcard into the Pipeline Masters! he’ll be surfing against the worlds best and i’m looking forward to see him shine this week at the Banzai Pipeline!