experimenting with my equipment is so fun. making minor adjustments is making major improvements. my friend Rod took my mast to the machine shop and now my foil works 10x better! so stoked!

so stoked to surf with Park-san yesterday. we caught some amazing waves! my local friend at Bowls told me that yesterday was the best day in a month! score!

spent some quiet time having a cold beer and watching the sparkling Friday night fireworks.

did you see this photo circulating on the internet? a Hawaiian Monk Seal with an eel in his nose? haha. scientist can’t figure it out. i’m not a scientist but this Monk seal was probably playing around looking in the wrong hole…

i was once a photographer. one big reason i became one was to document my niece and nephews surfing history. it’s photos like this that are totally priceless to me. now, the whole world is watching this kid, but before nobody was. looking through my lens 12 years ago, i already knew this kid was going to be on top. pure determination and no fear is Seth’s outstanding qualities. this was right before his heat at big Haleiwa. i documented his every move as a kid and someday i’ll share it with you. but for now, if you didn’t hear the big news yet, Seth got a wildcard into the Pipeline Masters! he’ll be surfing against the worlds best and i’m looking forward to see him shine this week at the Banzai Pipeline!

First time in Hawaii: TONIGHT!!!

Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and junky. No Pipeline Masters today.
Huge swell tomorrow!
Ala Moana waist high and strong offshore.
Diamond Head chest high and foiling paradise.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny later.
Going foiling and Guns and Roses concert!
Have a wonderful day!

it’s that time of year when i get out the resin and start repairing my surfboards. runny nose, scratchy eyes, itchy skin, and headaches. it’s just part of a surfers job…

by no means i’m good at this, but i try my best. and it’s good enough…

and after i sand my boards, i go jump into the ocean and clean up. Diamond Head’s been the best spot for foiling. and only 10 minutes away makes it even better.

all eyes are going to be on this kid in 2019. usually there is a weak spot for every surfer on tour. whether it’s a mushy beachbreak in Europe, a fake wave in a chlorine pool in California, or death defying barrel in Tahiti. Seth can surf anything and everything so he has no weak spot. i predict a Top 10 finish in the world rankings in 2019, then a shot at the World Title in 2020. anybody want to take a bet?

after fixing my surfboards, foiling like a bird, and talking about my Nephew, i’m loving my Japanese hot noodles. thank you Misaki-san!