i picked up Oogane-san from his hotel and in the 2 minute drive to the beach, i asked him a couple questions. right then, i knew what level he was on, and i knew that he wanted to up his level as much as possible in our session. so we started from the beginning, then progressed wave by wave.

i could tell Oogane-san is a very smart man because he listened carefully, processed the information, and had instant results. by the 3rd wave, he was surfing perfectly!

i kept on coaching him from the side and watching his surfing level turn up a few notches on every wave.

by the end of our session, we switched boards and Oogane-san was surfing super good, and super confident. he caught over 30 waves and rode them as good as you can. look at this beautiful wave, style, and confidence. this is what surfing is all about!

last wave in for the day. thank you Oogane-san for the awesome surf session. you did great! and all the time, we were wondering where everybody was? the waves were the best it’s been in a very long time! perfection!

Women who Surf: Yesterday @ Rockpiles left. Perfect and nobody…

Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 4-6′ and bumpy.
Eagles concert tonight!
Guns and Roses concert tomorrow night!
Pipeline Masters starts tomorrow!
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good for foiling.
Some rain in the morning becoming sunny and warm.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Going foiling and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i heard a little girl in the back telling her Mom, “i want to give Seth a lei, please come with me.” then the little shy girl gave Seth a lei and said “congratulations.” it was so cute!

and being the cool kid Seth his, he give the little girl a big hug. if you know Seth, you will know this kid has a heart of gold.

the Moniz family has been sponsored by Billabong for the past 15 years. it’s more than a sponsorship, it’s a family relationship. now it’s Seth’s turn to show Billabong and the world what this Hawaiian/Japanese can do!

my sister had a few words on her own. always thankful for all the support from family and friends. i already blocked some of my 2019 schedule to go watch Seth surf some WCT’s around the world! see you there!

standing room only. it was a night for Seth, and it was a night for Hawaii. i know so many Hawaiians will be cheering for Seth next year. and lots of Japanese too!

speaking of another kid that has big dreams, look at Shunsuke-kun! he made it all the way to the quarter finals in the All Japan Student Championship! i’m so proud of him!

all those days of boot camp must have worked because Shunsuke-kun is surfing way better than before! awesome!

and 2nd place in another contest in Miyazaki? it won’t be long until this kid wins a contest! good job Shunsuke-kun, see you in Hawaii later this month for more boot camp training!

i did some boot camp training with Oogane-san this morning at Bowls. the waves were perfect and you wouldn’t believe how good he got! another reborn surfer!!!

*foiled Diamond Head this afternoon and had the time of my life! my foil is going faster and getting looser. and i’m feeling so high right now!!! good happy night!