missing Okinawa so much that we had to have an Orion beer and Okinawa soba for dinner. i just love it!

this morning i pull up to Diamond Head and see almost every single South Shore foiler down there. at one point, there were 10 foilers out who just totally took over the ocean. i was so happy to be a part of this session because i learned so much. we were talking about how surfers don’t really help other surfers out. it’s more an individual sport and very competitive at every spot. but foilers help foilers all the time. it’s like we’re all in this together. absolutely no over ego, absolutely no pride, and absolutely no jealousy. we just ride the sea sharing waves and encouraging each other on. yesterday i foiled with the North Shore boys, and today i foiled with the South Shore boys. you wouldn’t believe how much i learned in this past 2 days.

we talk about equipment, about commitment, and about how much money we all have into foiling. haha. here is Leleo Kinimaka’s setup. he let me try it today and now i know where i want to be. instead of in front of the lip, i want to be on the lip. i’ll be practicing very hard…

if you’re a shortboard surfer, the waves would have been the worst today. but for us foilers, it was EPIC! it was so good that i went back this evening too. so that’s 4 foil sessions in the past 2 days. and tomorrow it’s looking like 2 more sessions coming. i can’t wait.

came home and researched for new equipment. everyday, there is something new coming out. and anything new is something i want to try. i just have to work harder so i can play harder…

now my passion for foiling went up 2 levels. mainly because i’m reconnecting with all the North shore and South shore boys. it feels like the good old days. we are a big gang that is growing stronger and stronger. if you want to join the movement, hit me up and i’ll guide you in the right way. as all us foilers will agree, you’re life will never be the same…

wow, Laniakea was so good yesterday morning! only a couple surfers out enjoying the golden moment. there were some steep drops, easy for short, but crazy for the foil.

the thing about that foil is once you commit, you have to go. you can’t pull back because if you go over the falls with your foil, you will get hurt. so yes, taking off on a chest high wave is similar to taking off on a 10′ set. so amazing!

but once you make the drop, the rest is easy. flying like a bird and loving life.

i know that not everybody likes to surf with a foiler out, but it’s all about mutual respect. i’m a surfer too so i try to make peace before war. how can you get upset in a setting like this?

when there is a huge North/West swell, you’ll find all the boys at Pipeline. but when there is a head high North/West swell, you will find all the boys at a very sacred spot. these are men who ride mountains!

Brian Surrat is in his 60’s, but living his life like a teenager.

back in the 90’s at Backdoor, Kaiborg use to yell to me “GO!” and of course, i went because when this guys yells go, you better freaking go! then yesterday a pretty big one came and Kaiborg yelled “GO!” and yes, i went. i think i was more scared yesterday than all those 10′ Backdoor days. haha.

Blaine Chambers has been foiling a lot. i know that because he’s 10x better than the last time i foiled with him.

and if you ever need inspiration, just watch Uncle Brian foil. lots of men settle down after turning 60, but this man is only getting started.

i saw Griffin Colapinto foiling on a good one. he just started so i’m sure it felt just as good as a 10′ barrel at Pipeline. everybody was yelling and so was he. pure stoke! it was a very classic moment…

Private Hawaii: Empty sandy beaches…

Good morning 6:15am.
North shore waist high and clean. Laniakea looking fun again.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy onshore. Junky.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
South winds at 15mph.
Sunny morning but the rain is coming.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!