got up at 4am, headed to the North Shore to surf in the dark. pulled up to Backdoor/Pipeline and it was smaller than i thought. umm…

head high and perfect but nothing out there that would make my adrenaline rush. and yes, i only go out early morning to the North Shore to get my adrenaline rush. nothing else…

thank goodness i had my foil in the truck! pulled up to Laniakea and had the time of my life!

the waves were so perfect and i was the only foiler out. taking off on these waves felt like taking off on 10′ sets! i was flying!!! my adrenaline rushing!

then met the coolest guy out there. Matsuda-san introduced himself to me. a long time NSA judge so he knows all the legends like Yo-chan, Bob-san, and Inaba-san. if you know those guys, you are super cool to me because i love those guys!

and if i know you, i’ll do my best to capture your special memory. Matsuda-san at his last sunrise on his Hawaiian vacation.

i was so happy driving home at 8:30 already totally satisfied. BUT, the winds were good, the tide was right, and the swell was perfect size for this secret spot i use to surf a long time ago. thought i’d go check it out.

the paddle is 4x the length compared to Bowls, lots of sharks, but always worth it. and when i get out, i see all the North Shore boys foiling! guys like Kai Garcia, Joel Parkinson, Brian Surrat, Griffin Colapinto, Kekoa Umemura, Blane Chambers, and many more!

we were all taking turns foiling in paradise. all hardcore watermen just enjoying the ride and cheering each other on like little kids. here is one of the heaviest North Shore locals you will ever meet, Kaiborg! so stoked to foil with you boys!!! now my adrenaline was pumping hard!

on the way home, wanted something sweet to make my blood pump even more.

snow puffs will do just that!

and some take out for the ride home. oh, i just bought that sleeping bag yesterday. planning a camping trip!

then i hit the freeway and the song “Rocket Man” by Elton John plays. i start singing at the top of my lungs. now my adrenaline was at 150% and the ride home was amazing. i haven’t been this happy off the ocean in a very long time. and it was still only 10:30am. haha…

I’m a Rocket Man!!!!

just checked out the photos i took of the dolphins we were swimming with. not too often you will find dolphins so calm and cool. we just stayed in one place and the dolphins would swim up to us back and forth. i had the best view as i watched the most beautiful thing from underwater. this is one thing i want to share with the special people around me.

and i also want to share the beautiful island of Molokai to my closest family and friends. i want all the important people around me to understand how this island and the people have changed my life. it’s all about respecting Hawaiians and the culture. it’s all about respecting the land and its resources. and it’s all about knowing where we come from. some people on Oahu tend to forget where they really come from. some of them disrespect the locals, land, and resources. talking back to locals, smashing the reef, and over harvesting. none of this happens in Molokai. and if it did, i’d hate to see the consequences…

and yes, i learned to take just what we need. just a couple opihi each at sunset beer time was all that was needed to make us very happy!

and nowhere else in the world i can feel more relaxed. i’m already dreaming about going back again very soon…

Wave of the day by Joshua Moniz. 9.83 out of 10 points! WSL / KEOKI SAGUIBO

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore 2-4′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Everywhere offshore in the morning, onshore in the afternoon.
Sunny and cool morning, hot afternoon.
Going to get barreled before the sun rises.
Have a wonderful day!