each day, i meet the most interesting people. Matsui-san flew in from Kona to Oahu yesterday and wanted to surf. it’s her very first time to Hawaii, and it’s her very first time surfing. the interesting thing was she just completed the Ironman Triathlon World Championships in Kona. what???? really???

she told me she was nervous and didn’t think she could surf. i told her “if you can complete the Ironman, you can do anything!” Matsui-san did more than just surf, she rode wave after wave after wave. nonstop paddling and nonstop surfing.

just 2 days before our surf, she swam 3.8km, biked 180.2km, and ran for 42.2km. all in 12 hours!!!! can you freaking believe that???? and add our marathon surf session, this woman is tough!!!

i promise i will never complain about fatigue ever again. and i promise i will never compete in an Ironman event. i’ll just stick to surfing…

amazing woman on her first trip to Hawaii, her first Ironman Championship event, and her first surf session.

congratulations Matsui-san! so these 3 days of Boot Camp will be a piece of cake for you. so easy… smile and enjoy…

since i overworked myself this whole year so far, i decided to give my body a rest. been looking for vacation getaways and i’m looking forward to every minute of it…

Always waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 6am.
HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR NORTH/WEST SHORES.
North shore head high now but triple overhead by this afternoon. 25′ faces!
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

this morning session with Takahata-san was amazing! waves were super good as i was just watching him catch wave after wave after wave.

then i seen the best right of the day coming so i yelled “GO!” i took off behind and watched Takahata-san surf the wave like an artist! carving up and down and looking like a painting…

if you surf Bowls rights, you will know that this wave is a gem. a very rare gem we all wait and pray for… lucky guy!

and with the waves overhead, there was no stopping this man!

good job Takahata-san. i was so stoked watching you surf over 25 waves! and our hulihuli chicken lunch was so good that i forgot to take a photo. haha. thank you for the great time!

then afternoon session with the Ironman. or should i say “Ironwoman.”

finally have time to update what’s important, and get rid of what’s not important.

this is important because i set an alarm when i free dive over 80′. when it sounds, my brain tells me “better start getting your ass up to the surface boy!” haha…