
got up in the morning and seen something i haven’t seen in a while. frost! yeah, we’re coming upon some cool mornings…

22 degrees i haven’t seen in a very long time. perfect cool and cozy morning temperature…

went to fill up the truck.

omg, almost a hundred dollars!!!

ate lunch and jumped back into the truck. it felt like an oven! now up to 38 degrees. i’ve never experienced hot weather like this in Hawaii ever! this world is getting strange…

but hot or not, Hawaii is still beautiful. went to jump in and cool down.

Carter got a new magic board so he’s been surfing and foiling and smiling.

Diamond Head was the best spot by far. long perfect rides…

Tony Moniz is back and i’m stoked.

to all my surfer friends, stay out of this mans way! he doesn’t know how to go around people. haha.

my board flies so fast that i can’t control it sometimes. so please stay out of my way too.

no pain, no gain. have a wonderful day!
No Pain, No Gain…
October 15, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report

Diamond Head has been the best in the afternoons… Sun in the fun…
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds are back at 20mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
Back to the Foil Boys

omg, i paddled out right at sunset yesterday to foil into the night. once i jumped into the ocean, i knew it was never too late to catch that last wave of the day!

i couldn’t believe how good it was! flying so fast on the foil!

then i see a father and son who just purchased this board an hour before they jumped into the ocean to try it out. the father asked me “hey, do you have any advice for me and my son?” i told him “be careful.” then the son took off on a wave and almost killed himself. they went in and i felt bad because i gave him the wrong advise. instead of saying to be careful, i should have said “go in now! and get taught by a good foiler! you can kill yourself, or kill somebody else.”

then went back to enjoying my life.

and foiled until dark. it was so beautiful!

then today, Tony texted me and said DH at noon. so Carter and I showed up at noon and we had the time of our lives.

Tony didn’t foil for a month because he was busy riding motorcycle in the mountains. but now he’s back in the ocean and i’m sure you will see him everyday back on the foil.

got a nice clip of Carter on a super good wave. just riding a swell and loving life.
the beautiful and endless Summer continues. more hot days ahead, and more big South swells too! enjoy it…


