it’s unbelievable how nice nature can be right here in Hawaii. even though i grew up here, so many things still amazes me.

and to see rare Hawaiian Monk Seals swimming up to white sandy beaches is cool too.

check out that wave breaking in the back. that is natural magic!

and to watch such amazing sunsets is a treat at the end of the day.

and to have the best South swells in October? this month is usually the worst month of the year for waves. it’s usually flat!

and to see locals riding the waves of their lives is cool too. everybody so stoked!

and i’m so stoked to get these wonderful presents from Rikita-san! my favorite somen!!!

and Osaka no Koibito? wow, my first time!

and this speaker is perfect for Mayuki, Molokai, and for upcoming surf trips! thank you Rikita-san and Toshimi-san!

and want to congratulate J.Lo for turning 49 years old. omg, look at those arms!!!

Shadow Surfing…

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Showers in the morning becoming sunny.
Going surfing and UFC tonight.
Have a wonderful day!

the Hurricane swell is sticking around. i was surprised to see some leftover sets this morning at Bowls. took Oku-san out this morning and look at his first wave. so beautiful! Go Oku-san!!!

surfed for a couple hours and had fun. fun riding waves, and fun duck diving under 100 waves. it was non-stop.

last wave of the day. time for lunch.

then it was time for my last wave of the day. the waves are so good this year so i’m pretty happy to have stuck around this summer. and it’s not ending yet…

happy session, happy surfers…

another day, another pho. great job Oku-san! keep on surfing…