Matsui-san either has no fear, or no idea how big the waves have been! it’s only her 2nd time surfing and we were on the outside catching sets. i’m glad she didn’t look behind on this one! haha.

good ride, good smile…

i was kind of impressed because when i said “go,” she went!

good to see some local girls having fun in this late Summer…

after the big sets, the small ones were way too easy…

only trained for 3 years and completed the Ironman competition. that’s amazing!

then went to eat some poke at Ono Seafood! so good!

then my favorite shave ice at Waiola.

then went for a drive to burn off the lunch. Diamond Head was looking super fine.

then it was round 2! Matsui-san surfing so good and so confident. she must have caught 30 waves today. and also threw her board and dove under 40 big sets. such an amazing woman…

each day, i meet the most interesting people. Matsui-san flew in from Kona to Oahu yesterday and wanted to surf. it’s her very first time to Hawaii, and it’s her very first time surfing. the interesting thing was she just completed the Ironman Triathlon World Championships in Kona. what???? really???

she told me she was nervous and didn’t think she could surf. i told her “if you can complete the Ironman, you can do anything!” Matsui-san did more than just surf, she rode wave after wave after wave. nonstop paddling and nonstop surfing.

just 2 days before our surf, she swam 3.8km, biked 180.2km, and ran for 42.2km. all in 12 hours!!!! can you freaking believe that???? and add our marathon surf session, this woman is tough!!!

i promise i will never complain about fatigue ever again. and i promise i will never compete in an Ironman event. i’ll just stick to surfing…

amazing woman on her first trip to Hawaii, her first Ironman Championship event, and her first surf session.

congratulations Matsui-san! so these 3 days of Boot Camp will be a piece of cake for you. so easy… smile and enjoy…

since i overworked myself this whole year so far, i decided to give my body a rest. been looking for vacation getaways and i’m looking forward to every minute of it…

Always waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 6am.
HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR NORTH/WEST SHORES.
North shore head high now but triple overhead by this afternoon. 25′ faces!
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!