this morning session with Takahata-san was amazing! waves were super good as i was just watching him catch wave after wave after wave.

then i seen the best right of the day coming so i yelled “GO!” i took off behind and watched Takahata-san surf the wave like an artist! carving up and down and looking like a painting…

if you surf Bowls rights, you will know that this wave is a gem. a very rare gem we all wait and pray for… lucky guy!

and with the waves overhead, there was no stopping this man!

good job Takahata-san. i was so stoked watching you surf over 25 waves! and our hulihuli chicken lunch was so good that i forgot to take a photo. haha. thank you for the great time!

then afternoon session with the Ironman. or should i say “Ironwoman.”

finally have time to update what’s important, and get rid of what’s not important.

this is important because i set an alarm when i free dive over 80′. when it sounds, my brain tells me “better start getting your ass up to the surface boy!” haha…

got up in the morning and seen something i haven’t seen in a while. frost! yeah, we’re coming upon some cool mornings…

22 degrees i haven’t seen in a very long time. perfect cool and cozy morning temperature…

went to fill up the truck.

omg, almost a hundred dollars!!!

ate lunch and jumped back into the truck. it felt like an oven! now up to 38 degrees. i’ve never experienced hot weather like this in Hawaii ever! this world is getting strange…

but hot or not, Hawaii is still beautiful. went to jump in and cool down.

Carter got a new magic board so he’s been surfing and foiling and smiling.

Diamond Head was the best spot by far. long perfect rides…

Tony Moniz is back and i’m stoked.

to all my surfer friends, stay out of this mans way! he doesn’t know how to go around people. haha.

my board flies so fast that i can’t control it sometimes. so please stay out of my way too.

no pain, no gain. have a wonderful day!

Diamond Head has been the best in the afternoons… Sun in the fun…

Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds are back at 20mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!