to my recollection, this Summer has to have been the best year in waves. a couple hurricane swells and multiple South swells. it’s already October and the action doesn’t stop! way overhead and no winds so i went to check out my secret spot. and omg, nobody out and it was amazing!

passed by Big Rights on the way back and seen huge swells hitting the lineup. there were only 4 surfers out??? i caught 4 waves, 2 were barrels, and 2 were 4 turn waves. 5′ sets and probably the best barrel of the year for me! so stoked! i came back to Mayuki and was so happy! look behind me and you’ll only see 5 guys out at epic Big Rights! so dam lucky…

yes everybody, i’m enjoying my vacation. supposed to be elsewhere but since that didn’t work out, i’m right here and loving every minute of it…

came home and prepared my own dinner. ate alone and now Mateus came to sleep over. better go give the little boy some love and attention… good night.

i always try to explain to people about opening up your leading shoulder. look at this and i’ll explain again. look at my left hand going left and starting the maneuver. in this case, a cutback. after my left hand leads, i keep my left shoulder open as it follows. then my board will follow right after that. notice my hand is up at shoulder height. then look at where my eyes are looking. not up, not down, but only in the direction i want to go. not too much, not too little.

and remember to relax your face and body. that’s why i tell everybody to smile. when you smile, your body softens up. when you’re tense, your body is stiff as a pole. so smile and enjoy the ride. then paddle back out and do it over and over. then simple maneuvers like this will become so natural…

that’s your surfing lesson for today. now go and try it!

Okinawa 9/2000 @ Nuggets.

Good morning 6am.
Waves everywhere!!!
North shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana overhead and super good.
Diamond Head 5′ and good.
Light wind so perfect conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing!
Have a wonderful day!!!