the Hurricane swell is sticking around. i was surprised to see some leftover sets this morning at Bowls. took Oku-san out this morning and look at his first wave. so beautiful! Go Oku-san!!!

surfed for a couple hours and had fun. fun riding waves, and fun duck diving under 100 waves. it was non-stop.

last wave of the day. time for lunch.

then it was time for my last wave of the day. the waves are so good this year so i’m pretty happy to have stuck around this summer. and it’s not ending yet…

happy session, happy surfers…

another day, another pho. great job Oku-san! keep on surfing…

so cool to pull up to the beach and sea nature at its finest.

very calm and cool lying on the beach taking a nap.

nothing was calm and cool in the ocean. like i said, i never seen the waves at Rockpiles this big in my whole life. easily double overhead and some bigger freak sets. look at Chizu-san running for her life!

then the other side of the wave greets us with a double rainbow. how cool is that?

i told Kanda-san to sit close by me and when i say go, you go!

then i see the most perfect right set coming right towards us. i yell go and the rest is history!

Kanda-san on the biggest wave of his life! i was paddling on the top of the wave screaming!!!

this was my last shot before i pulled back. then when i turned around to paddle back out, a huge 10′ set broke on my head. got held down for 2 waves and that was just the first 2 of 10 waves on my head. i’ve never experienced the South Shore this big and powerful. i was actually so stoked!

then i see this big red ball riding a wave from the outside to the inside. omg, it was the red channel buoy!!! the waves were so big that it was breaking outside of the buoy and it broke.

on the way in, saw Kekoa Cazimero and we were talking about how this was the biggest swell ever on the South Shore. it was so big that everybody had to come in.

Kanda-san was a very lucky man to experience what he just did. this surfers life will never be the same…

ended the day with tapioca milk tea. my favorite!

last was Banan. thank you again Kanda-san and Megumi-san for the amazing day!

Hurricane Swell: Go Troy!!!

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and little bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny wand warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!