September 30, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Rikita-san: Off the Wall!

Good morning 5:30am.
North shore head high and bumpy.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Factory Hawaii: Baking Surfboards


lovely Aloha Parade in the hottest sun ever. i don’t know how the horses were handling the heat?

we were handling the heat by eating garlic chicken and panang curry.

then drove up to the North Shore checked out the off season swell!

Haleiwa was looking so good!!!

told Nori-san to go try it out. looked a little nervous at first, but i give him a lot of credit for paddling out alone for his North Shore debut.

i told him we’ll be back in a couple of hours to pick you up. he thought we were joking but we weren’t. haha.

dropped by to say hello to Carl Schaper. watched him glass a few boards into perfection.

i like to take surfers to factories because i think every surfer should know how their boards are built. then they will appreciate it a whole lot more. i think Rikita-san and Toshimi-san were in awe…

yup, Carl is starting his foil board lineup and it’s looking super good!

baking boards in the indoor suntan room. i can’t believe people sleep in these to get a tan???

i was in shock watching the tsunami hit Indonesia. Mother Nature can be so beautiful, but then again it could take your life in a second. so sad for the people of Indonesia…

Friday Afternoon Sessions…


straight off the airplane, and straight into a wave. good way to live your life Rikita-san!

so stoked to surf with Nori-san again. look at this freaking amazing bottom turn!

Toshimi-san always wanting the biggest waves. calm and cool.

taking the bottom turn and setting up for the turn.

half way up and looking forward.

good job Nori-san.

Rikita-san heading to Rainbow Tower!

Nori-san backside attack!

Toshimi-san riding along the sunset.

thank you guys for the wonderful and long surf session. welcome to Hawaii and get ready for Day 2 Boot Camp!