I teach everyone to LOOK FORWARD! Good job Nori-san!
Good morning 5:50am.
North Shore overhead and good.
Ala Moana waist high with chest high sets. Clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Trade winds coming back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!
good to be back home.
good to be back surfing.
good to be back teaching.
good to be back smiling.
picked up Sawayanagi-san early this morning and paddled out to the most pristine conditions Ala Moana Bowls can offer.
glassy and uncrowded.
sunny and warm.
happy and happy.
before we paddled out, i gave Sawayanagi-san a little tip about weight distribution. meaning exactly how much pressure to push on each foot at each transition. then once he practiced on a few waves, it started coming natural.
and for a guy that couldn’t do round house cutbacks and off the tops before today, i was freaking impressed. this is perfect textbook surfing.
i was riding behind enjoying the moment. this mans surfing life will never be the same. it’s amazing how adjusting your weight distribution can make you surf 10x better and 100x cooler.
stoked to surf with Troy today too. he’s always getting the good waves.
great job Sawayanagi-san! i’m so surprised on how good you were surfing today. round house cutbacks and off the lips will change your life forever.
happy pho, happy man.
itadakimasu!
surfed this afternoon for almost 4 hours and the waves were still so good. burnt so going to put aloe on my face and sleep. goodnight..
i was taking a walk into the fields looking for deer. then i would come across the sweetest aroma that made my nose so happy. it was coming from this bush.
does anyone know what this flower is called? it was so sweet and such a happy kind of smell. i want to plant these all around my house.
i’m still so amazed by Mother Nature. a lot people don’t even look up, but i’m always looking around. and when i see something so amazing like this, it makes me appreciate nature so much more. totally breathtaking.
so sad to get on a plane back to Honolulu. since there was a huge storm outside Waikiki, the pilot took us on a route i’ve never flew before. we went right over the Koolau Mountains and it felt like you could touch the highest peaks. it was amazing!
omg, then we’re back in Honolulu. this is when my heart breaks. looking at what’s left of our land is sad. and what’s more sad is that it will never end until the last tree is gone.
makes me really think about the future for the next generations. maybe that’s why i think it’s my responsibility as a hunter to teach people how to hunt responsible. take only what you need and leave the rest.
and it’s my responsibility to teach everybody that goes to Molokai to leave it as it is. just take the “Aloha” back to where ever you come from and spread it around.
came back and passed by Diamond Head.
the waves were absolutely perfect. took out my foil and surfed like a bird….
