i couldn’t believe the hurricane was still sending us swells yesterday evening. the waves started pumping in the afternoon and it wouldn’t stop.

Tani-san came to Hawaii at the perfect time. it’s his first time and i hope he doesn’t think it’s like this everyday. the last time we got this swell direction was decades ago.

i had a blast following Tani-san as he caught this beautiful wave at Bowls. super good surfer with lots of power.

the best view in the house. can’t wait for another day of surfing with him come Monday!

the waves were so perfect that all i had to do was push on my back foot and along came the speed. 70% back foot, 30% front foot is what i teach people. no, this is not JohnJohn, this is me. haha…

found these photos online about the rich divided by the poor. i had goosebumps because i actually flew over Cape Town in Africa and seen this exact same setup. rich on one side, and poor on the other…

and also seen this flying into Johannesburg Airport too. one side of the street, rich, and the other, poor. i have a feeling this is how American will be in 30 years. scary…

Shimizu shave ice! yeah!

Mateus slept over and forget his toothbrush so i taught him how to brush his teeth with his finger.

don’t use too much toothpaste boy…

yes, that’s perfect!

brush with your finger, and rinse after. and next time don’t forget your toothbrush!!!

EPIC: Hurricane Lane @ Bowls Rights…

Good morning 7am.
Hurricane swell gone!
Ala Moana waist high an clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i was driving home yesterday with the full on Hurricane warning. it was Friday evening and usually this street would be full of cars. i get a call from Chiyoko-san about our surf session today. she asked “is it ok?” i said “yeah, we just go for it!”

and luckily we went for it because the waves were super challenging. perfect for long rides and nice smiles…

look at her go!!! Chiyoko-san was wondering why nobody was out. maybe because of the hurricane?

look at me in the back riding a wave right behind. this is hurricane swells where the intervals are so close. cool!

a few more waves as we enjoyed our amazing morning session.

thank you Chiyoko-san for the wonderful session. and thank you so much for translating my blogs from English to Japanese! see you again in a few days for Boot Camp day 2…

went to eat Chinatown with the rest of the Tanaka-san family. the food was so good that i totally forgot to take a family photo. omg! shock!!!

then surfed with Tani-san this afternoon. i couldn’t believe the waves were 3x bigger than this morning. it was the hurricane back swell! lucky!

there are hurricanes hitting Japan right now too. Kimura-san sent me this photo of a super secret spot near his house. wish i could be 2 places at the same time…

Nao-san bumped into Mai-chan at the new Apple Store in Kobe. such a small world! hello girls!