so stoked to see my nephews driving around the whole island and looking for the best waves. and so stoked to see that they found it. Seth Moniz@Neverminds.

i already knew that i wanted to surf the most wildest spot for this hurricane. it’s always been like that for the past 26 years so nothing has changed. yesterday, this was that spot. and right when i jumped in, 4 big obake sets broke right on my head. it was time to keep calm…

took my oldest nephew Noah with me yesterday. he wanted to check out the hurricane swells so was cool to come in and have a Big Swell beer with him. i love this kid…

ok, 4 days ago seems so long ago! but looking back reminded me what surfing is all about. it’s all about having fun. look at Ryu-san surfing while his 2 sons were watching!

perfect style, perfect smile. good job Ryu-san!

Shunosuke-kun was surfing really good too. catching waves by himself and figuring out the ocean. it was so cool to see.

and while his little brother and Father was paddling back out, he was smiling back in. so nice…

i had to get this shot of Sonosuke-kun with Diamond Head in the back. score…

and this was my goal again. to get the 3 of them on the same wave! another day of happiness…

all 3 paddled for the same wave, but it was Sonosuke-kun’s day as he rode it the farthest…

thank you boys again for the amazing days of Boot Camp surfing. can’t wait to see you guys next year!

Never turn your back to the ocean…

Good morning 6:15am.
Hurricane here!
Ala Moana head high and strong offshore winds.
Diamond Head 5′ and stormy.
Other secrets spots 8′ and dangerous.
Strong East winds at 30mph.
Hurricane weather.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

finally uploaded all the photos from this wonderful session with Sonosuke-kun. the cutest kid with the cutest smile!

when i found out he wanted to surf, i was so happy to be the one to share the moment. look at him getting ready on his very first wave. so cute!

and when he stood up, he was so stoked!

then Sonosuke-kun gets a hand shake from his proud Father. a priceless moment…

Father and youngest son sharing life, waves, and the moment.

good job Sonosuke-kun! thank you for the wonderful time i will never forget! see you next year!

went to buy water and guess what? no water. welcome to the panic land of America…

pretty much every shelf was empty at the supermarket so forget everything.

i checked Ala Moana this morning and it was chest high and clean. something i have no interest in knowing there are bigger waves right around the corner. pulled up to Diamond Head, then thought, “umm, i know a spot even bigger and better.”

so i drove around another corner and when i pulled up, i couldn’t believe it! super big Hurricane waves with just a couple surfers out. there were hundreds of spectators watching the crazy surfers riding these mountains…

so i grab my shortboard and jumped off the rocks. it was so funny because i could hear people saying “is that guy going to jump off the rock right there???” haha. anyway, i had the best Hurricane session i had in 25 years. rode some good waves that would never end. i actually caught my last one so far that i had to walk back a mile to my truck. so stoked!