Identical Twins?


another day, another amazing time with another amazing family. Kasahara-san’s family first time surfing and i was so happy to be the one to teach them how. once you get the flow like this, everything comes natural…

so stoked to see Papa Kasahara-san surfing and enjoying the long rides.

Mama Hideko-san caught on pretty fast too. not to often you can see someone on their very first wave smiling like this.

from the first to last, all smiles.

and even on the paddle back out. so stoked!

Bo-chan was such a cutie. she’s the first half of the twins that went out first. look at her beautiful smile.

she wanted more and more.

so she rode more and more. smiling the whole way.

then it was the other twin sisters turn. Chipa-chan was the stylist! look at her stance! so good and so cute!

i was riding along and thinking to myself “i’m so happy to be able to show this young girl the ocean in the way i learned it.”

and by this smile, i’m sure this day was unforgettable.

then went for some Teddy’s Burgers!

then to Waiola Shave Ice. want to thank the Kasahara-san family for the amazing day! keep on surfing!

then came home to grab my foil, met Carter at DH, and had an exciting session. i couldn’t believe how much speed i was getting! i was flying!!!

came home in the dark, just ate dinner, not going to sleep. thank you everybody for giving me this amazing day!

August 14, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Uncle Scotty @ Bowls Left!

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Freak of Nature: Japanese Boys to Men


had another amazing day. started off with the beautiful Jikou-san family.

13 year old Yuya-kun started off the session with the first wave of the day.

10 year old Shunsuke-kun went next.

this kid was so energetic! he kept on saying “so fun!”

stayed with the boys and made sure they were safe.

and Papa Jikou-san on the outside riding some nice waves.

the boys took turns. Yuya-kun with the Diamond Head backdrop.

Shunsuke-kun with the long ride.

spent some time on the outside surfing with Jikou-san. super cool guy from Wakayama.

and super good surfer too.

it’s been a while since he surfed so i’m sure this bottom turn must have felt good.

some hot pho for some cool surfers.

the last thing these 3 boys want to do is go shopping. so i took them to the most beautiful places on the island. first from on top of the world.

then you won’t believe what happened after. i took them to my super dangerous secret spot. the waves were big and it was the perfect day to turn the 2 boys into 2 men. this is another story in a story so i’ll have to come back to it later. but to make it short, the 2 young boys entered the unknown and became men today.

then back to town and surfed with Hattori-san into the sunset. i left my house at 7am and came home at 7pm. so many good memories today. i feel totally satisfied with my life right now that i only have one more word to say. “goodnight.”