Hurricane Hector passing by. Lucky!

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Rain, clouds, sun, and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

this is the best bowl of Pork/Seafood Sarisari you will find on this island. only $9 and tons of flavors…

another day of learning about the ocean, and learning about yourself. Nao-san getting into the flow of both.

smiling is the key to being calm. if you smile, your muscles are relaxed, and you can remember the amazing ride. totally opposite if you don’t…

still some big waves this morning with perfect conditions.

if you want to learn about the ocean, you have to be in the ocean. i told Nao-san to swim from the lineup all the way in to the beach. she did that successfully so there should be no problem if she ever breaks her leash in the future. this is called “preparation.”

while Nao-san was swimming, i was surfing. even getting a little barrel!

couple off the lips and a few cutbacks too. gosh, i actually love surfing too much! haha.

Mai-chan is young and searching for a path in life. so many roads to choose so advice from an experienced independent woman is important. this is Nao-san’s “what?” facial expression. haha.

this is Nao-san’s “really?” facial expression. haha.

but at the end, i’m sure Mai-chan got some good words of wisdom from a very successful woman. girls talk at the beach. loving it…

i took Nao-san to study the ocean. i was on the top explaining things to her about currents, swells, entry, and calmness. they she wanted me to catch a couple waves so i went because i’ll never turn down an opportunity to surf this magical spot. a spot i use to surf in high school…

lots of people die here each year so it’s not the safest place to surf. i told Nao-san that surfing here is totally different than surfing Bowls. Bowls is like a swimming pool compared to this. you actually have to take off right on the edge of the rocks. there is no other way.

i caught a wave and rode it right pass Nao watching on the rocks. a very long and very wild one but it felt so dam good!

i caught 8 waves at perfect Bowls earlier in the day, but this one wave fulfilled me the most.

this is Nao-san’s angle as the got out her iPhone.

slippery rocks, poky sea urchins, big moray eels, heavy locals, and strong current. it’s not a place for everyone. thank you Nao-san for asking me to surf. just those 2 waves made my whole day…

and thank you for the gifts! so happy!

went to have a nice Chai Tea at Surfers Coffee. it was the best ever…

only at Wahiawa, Hawaii…

yes, it was more than a cup of coffee…