NO FEAR: Chifumi-san @ Hurricane Rockpiles!

Good morning 5:30am.
Hurricane swell coming down fast.
Ala Moana chest high and little bumpy. Dirty water!!!
Diamond Head shoulder high and very bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and hot day.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

we paddled out at 7am and the waves were super small. each minute, the sets were growing and growing. i haven’t seen the waves on the South shore grow that fast ever! in an hour, Bowls was closing out! it’s called a Typhoon in Japan, and a Hurricane in Hawaii. either way, we surfed a historical day!

Nao-san caught some sets from Bowls. while she was paddling out, the mountains kept rolling in and breaking on her head. my friends were saying “hey, you better go help her.” i said “no way, she can do it.” they said “no way she can come back out by herself.” i said “watch!” and guess what? Nao-san kept on coming back out. it was amazing!

we drove to Sandy Beach to watch the High Surf Advisory in action. the shorebreak was pounding!

passed by Diamond Head and couldn’t believe how big it was too! look how close intervals the waves were! this is typical Typhoon swells that we never see here in Hawaii. in fact, i don’t even know the last time this happened? maybe 30 years ago??

Seth texted me where they where surfing. so Nao-san and i paddled out to see the #1 WQS boy in raw action! it was Nao-san’s first time out here but no nervousness anymore.

while Seth and Josh were having barrel after barrel and air after air, Nao-san was having her own fun.

i couldn’t believe she caught 3 waves! the waves kept on coming and coming, and the ocean was like a washing machine. you could feel the ocean being so alive…

a historical day for this surfer girl. it’s her first Hurricane swell and she did wonderful! good job Nao-san! big step in your surfing career…

was at the Yacht Club and smelt fire. omg!

come to find out, 2 cars and a motorcycle were on fire. very suspicious…

so nice to see longtime friend Chuck Andrews surfing at Bowls. he’s 64 years old and surfing like a teenager. so cool!

so happy to see Toda-san and Takami-san hanging out with Kawamura-san in Shizuoka. this is what i love about the Go-Naminori World! cool people connecting with cool people.

want to see the prices of surfboards a very long time ago? yes, $105 for a 9’1 longboard. haha.

all above prices includes everything. now, that very same board is worth thousands…

speaking about boards, i just waxed up my new one. don’t you love this airbrush by Jeannie Chesser? i do…

i don’t use anything but Sex Wax from Japan…

did a free dive in the rain. dove down, looked up, and saw this. how could you not love the rain???

since i don’t have any social media accounts, i can’t see photos like this. but when somebody sends me it, i’m very appreciative. this is my sister home schooling Seth and teaching him how to become a World Champion. focus, be kind, and respect everyone. good job Tammy!