Smooth Summer Swells continue…

Good morning 5:15am.
New South swell coming! Yeah!
Chest high at Ala Moana and super clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 2 Boot Camp with Matsumoto-san. still had some Hurricane waves so we went big today! no room for mistakes so we took it step by step. first, look forward!

second, pop up, keep your knees bent, and look forward!

third, put your hands up for balance, and look forward!

forth, smile and enjoy the ride. and look forward!

then it was Matsumoto-san’s time to do it on his own. we surfed the outside all morning so there were still some big sets coming through. we had some amazing rides!

then it was time to go up a level. changed to my high performance board and told him “nothing changes, just keep calm and look forward!”

and so easily, he got up and rode his last wave as good as anybody could. lots of confidence, lots of rides, and lots of smiles. good job Soldier!

then went to pick up the girls and had an amazing afternoon. started off in Chinatown!

gosh, i love this place. no tourists, no overpricing. Chinese and locals only. that’s why it’s so cheap and delicious…

then did some driving around to some amazing places. the air was fresh, the view was beautiful, and the girls were happy.

thank you guys for the amazing day! i had a great time. please have a safe flight back to Nagoya and keep on surfing…

i knew the boys were going to surf the best spot on this historic day so i texted Seth and asked “where you boys surfing?” he text me where and i headed straight there. this is something i couldn’t miss!

pull up and see Seth, Joshua, and Benji paddle out. then seen coach Rainos Hayes getting ready. Nao-san and i started talking story and then i seen Seth take off on a big wave, race down the line, and do the biggest air i’ve ever seen in my life! bigger than Kelly Slater, bigger than John John. i couldn’t believe when he landed it!

then as Nao-san and i paddle out, Joshua was paddling in. he said “uncle, this is the best i’ve ever seen this place!” i asked him “then why are you going in???”

he said “i broke my board so i’m going to go get another one.” what??? i was watching some of the best barrel riding i’ve ever seen in town. and the boys were so stoked!

then 15 minutes later, i see Benji Brand swimming in. he broke his board too! so i ask him “did you see Seth’s air?” he said “no, but Seth told me that that was the biggest air he did in his whole life.” what?? that means bigger then the wave pool? bigger than Japan? bigger than Hunnington? i was so stoked to be able to see that! good to see you boys hunting for the best wave on the island and finding it. thank you for telling me or we would have missed out. lucky…