Perfect Timing…

Good morning 5:30am.
Small South swell!
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Very clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Waikiki waist high and perfect.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing 3 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time surfing with Kawamura-san. it’s been 2 years since we surfed together and now he’s a brand new man! look at him go!

i just sat and waited on the outside while watching him catch wave after wave. so happy the waves came up today!

he also wanted to learn how to walk and now he’s walking. this is so cool!

the way you surf is the way you live your life. the more calm and relaxed you are, the more happier you will be. so smile and love it!

stoked to see Toda-san out there too. the best drone guy in the world so if you want to schedule your drone session, contact Todasan at todaheli@gmail.com.

another cool shot of a cool surfer.

last wave and the end to a wonderful morning session. thank you Kawamura-san for the wonderful day. hope your dream of living in Hawaii comes true! i’m sure it will…

we wanted to eat healthy so went to the healthiest spot on the island.

avocado mixed sandwich. so amazing.

did you hear about the car sharing program that just started in Hawaii? you can rent a Toyota for just $9/hour or $79/day. that’s the coolest idea ever!

Nakahodo-san took 5 days of Boot Camp. and in those 5 days, he learned how to foil, he learned how to relax, he learned how to surf better, and he learned how to fall. i addition to that, he was so lucky to be here when Toda-san had his drone out. look at this amazing drone photo of Nakahodo-san foiling! so cool!

Nakahodo-san has dreams. one was to foil. that just came true. next is to live in Hawaii. i’m sure that will come true too because this man has passion in his blood…

in foiling, you have to have a very very bad wipeout to wake you up. you will get the wind knocked out of you, you will get bruised, and you will be humbled. the strong get back up and keep on trying. it’s like falling off a mountain on your bicycle, almost dying, then wiping off the dirt and riding your bike on that very same mountain.

want to thank Toda-san for the amazing drone footage. i didn’t realize how beautiful foiling looks from above until i seen this.

even after 7 months of foiling, i still have bad wipeouts like this. it’s still so scary. maybe that’s why it feel so dam good too? thank you again Toda-san for not missing a thing…

surfed Bowls yesterday afternoon. only us out. score!

if you have the right surfboard, you will have the best session of your life. Nakahodo-san is very open minded so what ever board i bring for him, he happily rides it. any other board, he wouldn’t have caught this amazing wave.

and i could see how foiling has helped his surfing. he’s paddling stronger, getting up faster, and his balance is amazing.

where is everybody? surfed out? not us!

yesterdays lesson was to go with the flow. open your vision and let the ocean take you where she wants to. so we were taking off at the peak at Bowls.

then riding and relaxing. and when you’re relaxed, your body is so soft that you will glide even on a little swell.

Nakahodo-san rode waves all the way to the rock wall. that’s about a minute a ride. this is how to go with the flow. i try to explain to surfers to incorporate this concept into their daily lives. things will only get better…