My first Hydrofoiling surf session

last time Nakahodo-san was here, he told me “i want to buy a foil, and i want to foil.” i asked him “are you sure? it’s very expensive and very dangerous.” he said “i’m sure.” so here we are as the day has come.

it’s not only Nakahodo-san’s first time foiling, it’s his first time surfing this beautiful spot. he was paddling out looking around saying “wow.”

since it’s his first time, i set up his board so it’s mellow. first step is to get your footing right, then to get your balance right, then to ride a wave straight. everything was perfect from his very first wave. so i get out the wrench and adjust the foil again.

had 6 foilers out yesterday. here is Bowls local Keoni on a nice wave. it was only 5 months ago i told him “brah, you should foil, you going be so good guarantee!” now it’s 5 months later and he’s good guarantee!

when you surf, everybody competes against each other. when you foil, everybody helps each other. that’s the difference and that’s why us foilers are super tight with each other. i don’t know one asshole foiler, but i can’t say the same about surfers. haha.

Nakahodo-san foiled his first day better than any other foiler on his first day. we have 4 more foil lessons and i guarantee you he’s going to get good super fast.

such a happy day in paradise. great job and see you today for Day 2!

back to day 4 of July. a very peaceful surf, dinner, and fireworks.

Maki-san’s nabe is getting better and better each time. just like her spearfishing.

dinner for the 6 of us. so full, so healthy, and so happy! thank you guys and girls for the amazing boat trip dinner…

July 7, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report

this was Bowls rights yesterday. i was in the barrel, where were you?

Good morning 5:15am.
Ala Moana head high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, rainbows, and beautiful.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

Hawaii Summer Surfing: Big Friday!

gosh, this Summer is amazing! today was way bigger than yesterday so Ushijima-san was super happy! i was super happy because it was 2x bigger than yesterday, and there were 3x less people than yesterday. so Ushijima-san go to surf some amazing rights all to himself.

i was paddling out watching this beautiful wave come in.

this is as perfect as you will ever see Bowls rights.

nice style, nice wave, and nice ride. nice everything.

this is not only surfing, this is freaking art!

so stoked surfers paddling in after a dream Summer session.

when i say “go,” you better “go!” haha.

fresh poke for lunch.

thank you Ushijima-san for the wonderful days of surfing. and thank you for this wonderful treat!

i’ve probably done over 10,000 round house cutbacks surfing every since i was 16 years old. but of those 10,000 round house cutbacks, nothing even comes close to the feeling i get on a foil cutback. i feel like i’m a flying fish! thank you Takami-san for my 100th cutback on my foil. i’ll get to 10,000 very soon.

went to the North Shore to pick up Nakahodo-san’s new foil surfboard. looking so nice!

then went to pick up Nakahodo-san this afternoon for his very first foil lesson. the waves were as good as it gets for the foil. had 6 of us out supporting each other from start to finish. welcome to the cool foiling world Nakahodo-san!