we paddle out to Bowls rights and i when i see a big set coming, i yell “go Ushijima-san!!!” this wave was a beauty!!!

then i waited in the inside to get the shot of satisfaction.

and the shaka sign that means everything is so good.

Ushijima-san is from Toyama. so want to give a shout out to all the surfers at Bouz Surf Shop! can’t wait to surf your guys secret spot again. i’ll never forget that amazing session we all had together about 12 years ago.

more rides, more happy. get ready for tomorrow Ushijima-san!

yeah, i had a few amazing rides myself. the waves were perfect!

met up with my foiling crew this afternoon at Diamond Head. Carter and i trained here so many times so we know how hard it is. it was Toda-san’s first time so it wasn’t easy.

if you foil different waves, you will learn so much. so just by this, Toda-san has become a stronger foiler. he just doesn’t know that yet.

and if you ask Carter how hard it is to foil, he will tell you. but once you get over the steep learning curve, you will foil like a pro. this ride was amazing!

sometimes you come in happy, sometimes you come in not so happy. this sport will bring out the best in you, and it will bring out the worst in you. only the strong survive. Toda-san is strong, so he will survive!

Bowls is so easy so you can surf there for 3 hours and not be tired at all. Diamond Head on the other hand is wild! after one hour, you’re totally exhausted. then the hardest part is hiking back up the steep mountain with your board. this is about the 1000th time i’ve done this.

Love your Freedom! I love mine! Photo by Takami-san.

Good morning 6am.
New South swell again!!!
Ala Moana head high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Waikiki chest high and perfect.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

i own 4 foil surfboards and after riding the first 3, i sat down, thought about it, and came up with the ultimate magic board. i feel like i can fly even higher and faster now.

and my pilot friend Donald is loving the foil life. even when he’s driving hundreds of passengers from country to country, all he’s thinking about is foiling.

we pulled up to Three’s yesterday evening and had the magical session. Carter with the full round house cutback.

surfing brings out the biggest smiles. foiling brings out even bigger smiles. i haven’t seen Toda-san this happy since i met him over 25 years ago.

and i knew the day would come when he will be flying high too. i just didn’t think it would be this soon.

Maki-san on a nice set at Three’s. so stoked!

this is my Brazilian friend Luiz. he’s the one that rents out cars to all the Japanese pro surfers that come to Hawaii. super cool guy with super cool service.

after the Flotilla party yesterday, some party people were getting blown by the wind all the way across the sea. lifeguards ended up assisting over 400 drunk people. this guy tried to come in by himself because he was too embarrassed to get rescued. hey dude, the ocean eats up egotistic people.

this guy too was trying hard to come in. this is a classic example of mixing alcohol and ocean. not the best mix.

after we surfed, we paddled back to Mayuki, got out the poke, opened some cold beers, and had the coolest sunset party.

then when the first fireworks blew, it was pure happiness.

yes, we had the best seats on the whole island.

this morning surfing with Ushijima-san was super fun. lots of smiles, and lots of shakas.

a hot bowl of meat pho for lunch to end our awesome session.

i eat pho about 3x a week and love every serving of it.