diamond head gets good only a few times a year, and yesterday was one of those few times. in fact, it was absolutely perfect! i don’t think this wonderful couple knew how lucky they were?

Yuko-san was very nervous. but once she caught some perfect waves, the nerves calmed down. then she was able to enjoy the long rides!

and enjoy the happy smiles.

Osumi-san surfs really good. he’s been surfing for 10 years and has never been taught before. so i was stoked to ride along the side yelling my head off! haha. then once he made a few adjustments, he was surfing perfectly!

omg, seen some beautiful waves out there! look at this beauty!

and seen some old school rippers out there too. i use to surf here everyday when i was in college so it was good to see my old school friends still ripping.

gosh, surfing into diamond head? crazy happy!

Osumi-san riding his last wave of the evening.

pure natural beauty!

thank you Osumi-san and Yuko-san for the wonderful time. you guys came and surfed hawaii on the perfect afternoon. the conditions at diamond head doesn’t get any better than that.

the perfect ending to a perfect day. i love my job, and i love my life!

Look at my beautiful underwater view! Amazing!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-4’ and perfect. Clean everywhere.
Ala Moana knee high and perfect.
Diamond Head waist high and perfect.
No wind so epic conditions.
Sunny and very warm. Just like summer!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

before i start my blog, i want to congratulate my little niece Kelia Moniz on her wedding engagement. she’s going to get married! i’m so freaking happy for her!

glad to see Kimura-san and the boys still scoring good waves in the mentawai. i might have to plan a trip to indo next year with some friends.

i love Kaimuki. went to a bar the other night with some high school friends and had a great time.

surfed this morning with Seigo-san. waves, weather, and everything was perfect!

there were times when we where the only ones out. unbelievable!

Seigo-san’s been surfing better and better. super focused and confident.

after he caught 2 waves, i told him to give me his leash. no leash prevents unnecessary wipeouts. then Seigo-san surfed the rest of the morning even more perfectly.

great job again Seigo-san! so stoked to see you ripping!

then went to eat the best loco moco in hawaii.

thank you Seigo-san for the awesome morning. see you tomorrow for another day of boot camp!

if you ever go to Diamond Head Grill, order this. loco moco with brown rice, egg sunny side up, and a medium plantation ice tea. total cost is $12.25 and you will be a very happy surfer.

then went to check diamond head. looked super fun and not too many surfers out.

picked up Mr. and Mrs. Osumi-san and headed to the beach. omg, we had a great time!

surfed until evening. we paddled out and there were about 10 surfers out. when we paddled in, there were 80 surfers.

and watched the beautiful sunset from the cliff. i surfed for over 6 hours and i’m totally burnt. i’ll be sleeping before 8pm. good night.