Changu Memories

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Kimura-san found the perfect villa where he always stays at. super nice rooms, quite, and very good breakfast. this is where we have breakfast in the morning before we decide what to do.
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my foot was sore after i cut it on the rocks. super sore when i was walking around, but once i got on my surfboard, it felt fine. just have to take good care of it because it’s very easy to get an infection in bali.
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headed to changu on my last day. just wanted to get wet.
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everything in changu changed except for this little restaurant. it was here from the beginning, and glad to see it still around. had thousands of memories right here!
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the waves were supposed to be small but once we pulled up, the sets started to roll in. super stoked!
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tried out Mike Woo’s new model. fast and perfect for changu.
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Kimura-san needs motivation to surf when he doesn’t want to surf. but when he’s with me, he has to surf. there is no way i’m taking no for an answer. but every time after we come in, he’s a very happy man.
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living in indonesia paradise.
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ate some yakiniku and got dropped off at the airport. i was so stinky! stinky for the 27 hour travel time back to hawaii. spending 2 nights on the airplane isn’t that fun. i feel sorry for the people sitting around me.
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as soon i got on the airplane at 12:30am, i slept like a baby.
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and woke up to the beautiful sunrise just off japan.
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i like to check out this map because i look for new destinations. now i’m very interested in going to russia. that’s if we don’t go to war before that happens.
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arrived to kansai airport and went straight to my breakfast restaurant. 12 long hours here. finally time to think about all the fun i had this trip. it went by so fast!
anyway, see you back in hawaii!

My 12 hour free bed!


@KIX
Watch movie.
Read book.
Sleep.
Eat.
Go Hawaii tonight.
Yeah!

Score Truck Stop

after we checked out of sex resort, we packed up the boards and headed back. heard earlier the waves were flat so we pretty much gave up on surfing for the day.
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then as we were driving, we seen this perfect little wave breaking right off the road. so we slam on the breaks and stop. nobody out!!!
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watched a little more and it was getting bigger right in front of our eyes. we take the boards off the roof, wax up, and head out.
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kind of crazy how you have to get out at some places. our first time surfing it so you have to use your experience when it comes to this. i’m keeping one eye on the ocean, and the other on Kimura-san. we get out safely.
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and we took turns surfing wave after wave. and it kept on getting bigger and bigger. some head high sets with totally perfect conditions.
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Kimura-san is going to Mentawai in a few days so here he is warming up. the two of us having our own private mentawai moment.
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surfed till sunset. really didn’t want to come in but we had a long drive ahead of us.
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Yasin strapped the board up again and we were on our way. i’d say we had a bonus surf session. totally unexpected and totally scored.
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finally making it back to the city for our fresh crab dinner. i was looking forward to this.
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we picked the biggest ones.
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back in hawaii, we call these samoan crabs. so sweet and juicy!
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i can’t explain to you how good it was. once we started eating, everybody stopped talking. it was eating in silence. all you could see is happiness!
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then came back to our hotel. just love walking in the door to a setup like this.
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i love you? didn’t they know i was alone? seeing this could make a person get pretty lonely. haha.
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rest and relax time.