surfed some perfect waves this morning with Oku-san. he’s been surfing for 7 years and wanted to get better. it’s his first time ever being coached so i was so thrilled to be the one. after a few adjustments, he was surfing perfectly. he couldn’t ride for long, now he can. he couldn’t do a cutback, now he can. look at this beautiful wave!
after his first long wave, this is the magical smile only surfing can bring out. seeing this is like a major reward for me. this is why i love my job so much.
another day a boot camp! great job Oku-san! your life will never be the same!
if you’ve been surfing for a long time and keep on falling, something is wrong. i can help you fix it in 20 minutes. just ask Oku-san. after his 3rd wave, he never fell. just so simple!
we both were so hungry so we went to eat a mega roast pork plate lunch.
want to congratulate Takahashi-san for having the courage to start the 2 month pilgrimage in shikoku. i hope i have a chance to fly up there to support his mission. but there is no way i’m walking. haha. good luck Takahashi-san! i’m cheering for you!
Who was Andy Irons? this movie is going to be amazing. watch it and learn the real story of Andy Irons.
Who was AI?
The Tequilla Hitchiker
went to spear a couple moana kalis for dinner.
then went to a friends house and he prepared it perfectly.
just a few good friends having a local style gathering.
milwaukee’s best premium beer and don julio anejo on the drink menu.
omg, yesterday was so embarrassing. i was so excited driving around the island that i forget to stop for gas. so when i was passing pipeline, all the gas ran out. so i pulled over, walked to a shop near waimea bay, borrowed a gas container. then i had to get to the gas station at sunset beach so i hitchhiked. the 3rd car that passed picked me up. he was a surfer named Jeff. we talked about surfing all the way.
then he dropped me off at the gas station. i filled up the container, then had to get a ride back.
so i started walking back to waimea and stuck out my thumb again. the 2nd car picked me up. it was a big hawaiian dude and his family. i jumped in the back seat with his 4 kids. had a great time talking to the kids. thank you Ryan for the ride back to waimea.
then i filled up the tank and was on my way back to town. i hope i never do this again because it wasn’t only embarrassing, it was a hassle. i haven’t hitchhiked in over 30 years! haha.
October 16, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report
Bintang Photos: Little Kazuma in Bali.
Good morning 5:30am.
North shore 2’ and bumpy. Best spot Rocky Point.
Ala Moana waist high and nice.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
