had an amazing time with Murakami-san and Kinuyo-san this morning. two cool surfers from hiroshima!

Murakami-san surfs really good. he was surprised on how long and far he could ride a single wave.

and he caught some pretty big sets too. the waves were absolutely beautiful!

Kinuyo-san on her first wave of the day. perfect!

glad to have gotten this diamond head back shot. i love it!

a rare encounter with a hawaiian monk seal happened right in the lineup. this is a one in a million chance. lucky! thank you Murakami-san and Kinuyo-san for the amazing morning in the beautiful nature! and thank you for all the laughs too! so fun!

the monk seal kept on staying right by us. hunting fish and giving us the eye. he was so cute! more photos coming tomorrow. have a great evening!

such a cool photo Toda-san took the other day at Sandy Beach! when i was in high school, we use to come here every friday night at 10pm and turn this place into a drag strip. hundreds of volkswagons from all over the island came here to race each other down this straight 1/4 mile. why 10pm? because the police would change shifts at 10pm so no way they would be around here. then by time the next shift came at 11pm, we would all be gone. it was part of my childhood culture and driving down this road brings back all the memories.

thank you Matsu for sending me this photo from Nihiwatu, Indonesia. i will never forget the great time we all had!

remember my little baby avocado plants? well, they’re not babies anymore. i’ve been giving it lots of love and it’s grown so tall and strong. i hope it will give me some fruit soon.

and remember that little papaya tree i planted? omg, it’s huge now!

and the papayas are growing already. i’m looking forward to eating some for breakfast!

my fresh basil. smells so good.

and my gardenia plants are giving me sweet flowers all year round.

more flowers and more beauty. i spent 2 hours in the hot sun pulling weeds, cutting the grass, and taking care of my little farm. just a couple of years ago, there was nothing. now, there is everything! i’m so happy!

OMG! My surfboard!
Good morning 6:15am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm day.
Going surfing and boat riding!
Have a wonderful day!