another 7 hour surf day! two long rounds with three wonderful people!

morning with Tonooka-san and Watanabe-san. both first names are Hiro-san so that was pretty easy to remember, but a little confusing at the same time. sometimes when i was yelling “Hiro-san,” both would look at me. haha.

these boys never been coached before so they walked right into my special boot camp. we made a few adjustments and after few waves, they were surfing perfectly. great job Tonooka-san!

and great job Watanabe-san!

seen some amazing rides by both of these guys today. Watanabe-san on the diamond head shot.

i love this photo. look at Tonooka-san smiling on the cutback. this is what surfing is all about!

thank you boys for the wonderful morning session. hope your body heals because it’s going to be another morning of boot camp on wednesday. be ready!

then went surfing with Noritsugu-san this afternoon. the waves were perfect, nobody was out, and there was an amazing rainbow over us for 3 full hours! it was awesome. seven hours in the water and i’m pretty tired. a very happy tired. goodnight.

Game night.
Right now!

went to check out one of the most beautiful, but yet most dangerous views in hawaii. if you pulled up here between sets, the water will look so inviting. then you walk to the edge to get a better look.

then a wave will come and wash you in the ocean. somebody died here the day before i took this photo. in fact, many die here each and every year.

Mama and Papa Iwata-san staying behind the edge. this is the safety zone.

gosh, nature can be so beautiful one minute, but can also take your life in the next minute. please be very careful and never turn your back to the ocean.

want to thank Kanemura-san for the snacks!

and thank you Mai-san for the sake!

in surfing, you must look forward to obtain good balance. same as cable walking. if you look down, you will fall and die.