Oahu's Most Dangerous Treasures

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went to check out one of the most beautiful, but yet most dangerous views in hawaii. if you pulled up here between sets, the water will look so inviting. then you walk to the edge to get a better look.
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then a wave will come and wash you in the ocean. somebody died here the day before i took this photo. in fact, many die here each and every year.
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Mama and Papa Iwata-san staying behind the edge. this is the safety zone.
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gosh, nature can be so beautiful one minute, but can also take your life in the next minute. please be very careful and never turn your back to the ocean.
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want to thank Kanemura-san for the snacks!
mai
and thank you Mai-san for the sake!
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in surfing, you must look forward to obtain good balance. same as cable walking. if you look down, you will fall and die.

October 3, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report


Shintaro-san in Bali! OMG, good job!!! See you in Hawaii in December!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Waikiki knee high and perfect.
East winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Hidden Treasure

all of a sudden, seems like the water temperature dropped a degree, and so did the weather temperature. more clouds and wintery weather on the way for the week. i love it!
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there is only one way to get to my secret beach, and that’s by boat. and once you get there, you can hang out on the white sandy beach and have it all to yourself. Maki-san is a professional shell picker so i knew she would find some treasure.
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this is what Takami-san found. i love that sea urchin!
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and this is Maki-san’s find. she was so stoked!

i would be stoked if i was Maki-san too! the cool thing about the secret beach that nobody knows about it. i went there about 10 times and haven’t seen a soul around. can’t wait to go back again!
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want to thank Keiko-san for the photo from Zaimokuza Beach in Kamakura. omg, where’s the waves?
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and last, look at this photo Mori-san from Tsujido sent me. who is this? eeh? Toda-san??? really???