i was in the library at Amanemu and seen this cool book. “Ama”

looked through it and seen some cool photos of the last of the amasan’s. the culture that is dying out. pretty sad to think that this culture part of deep japan is fading away.

this is ise-shima. the birthplace of the amasan. it’s magical and so deep in culture.

“a woman who cannot feed a man is worthless.” cool saying.

i’ve been so busy that i don’t have time to take care of things. been wanting to polish the truck for a long time but i’m either working, or it’s raining. yesterday i had a few hours in the evening so i got it done. hand polished the outside and inside. looks brand new again! so happy!

and thought i’d go even further and hand polish the rims. took me over an hour just for the rims and my hands are freaking sore!!!

i love to see results in everything i do. i’m happy with the outcome! now that the truck is looking brand new, i bet you it will rain when i drive it down my street. haha.

$160 mangos for sale!
Good morning 6am.
South Swell!
Ala Moana chest high and getting bigger. Overhead by tomorrow. Diamond Head head high.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

this morning was so crowded when we first went out. then towards the end, it got empty. this is what surfing is all about. talking story, meeting people, and being happy. welcome to the happy hawaiian surfing world!

Hashimoto-san is hooked on long boarding. catching more waves and riding it much longer. i’ve seen his confidence level go up a level every single day. now he’s charging big waves like this and looking so relaxed.

his backside is getting much better too. and to think he was going straight just a few days ago. incredible progress!

always happy to see Aoi out practicing. i love this kid.

we were super hungry so went to eat some mexican food with a horchata. the best combination after a great surf session! good surfing again Hashimoto-san. see you tomorrow morning! bigger waves and bigger smiles!

diamond head was a mess this afternoon. what we surfed was much better. scored again!