i wanted to show you something. something i see all the time. not too many people can see it because you kind of have to look for it. see that big rainbow far away? well, it popped up yesterday morning right in front of Chifumi-san. it was beautiful. then a set was coming, the winds were off shore, so i knew mother nature would take its course.

the wave passes by, and all of a sudden, you see a rainbow right in front. no, it’s not an optical illusion. no, it’s not photoshop. it’s nature. i see this all the time and i just love it.

the funny thing about it is Chifumi-san can’t see it. she can’t see it because she’s in it. haha. so next time you see the opportunity approaching, open your eyes and you will get a beautiful surprise!

want to thank Chifumi-san for all the avocados! i’ve been eating it everyday. salads, sashimi, and smoothies.

perfect ripeness!

this is my homemade avocado smoothie. creamy and delicious. the best in the world!

went to my dentist yesterday. he took my blood pressure and everything seemed to be alright. cleaned my teeth, scolded me for not flossing everyday, and i’ll see him in 6 months.

i watched the last contest in tahiti where Kelly Slater won. i’ve been following Kelly closely for the past 30 years. mostly looking at the boards he rides. the past few years, his surfings been off. good, but not consistent. that’s why he’s been losing. he says it’s mental but i think the reason is because he’s experimenting with too many different kinds of boards. his surfing hasn’t been the same. BUT, for this past contest when he went back to his basic old school dimensions in tahiti, i seen the old Kelly Slater. solid, confident, and consistent. in other words, unbeatable. i predict him winning the world champing again if he goes on a full season of riding basic boards he’s use to winning on. we shall see.

Another glassy surf day!
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Cloudy morning becoming very sunny and warm.
Lots of rainbows!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

99 out of 100 times i wash the truck, it rains right after. so after spending hours and hours sweating yesterday outside, clean as can be, it starts to rain. i have no idea why mother nature is doing this to me? you can just call me “Rainman.”

Hashimoto-san just loving the big waves! caught some big ones this morning and looking so confident! boot camp is working big time!

and now turning and riding the waves where it’s supposed to be ridden. must feel awesome!

so after a few days on the longboard training and getting the basics perfected, Hashimoto-san jumped on the short board and surfed it perfectly. instead of taking about a year to come to this level, he’s done it in just 5 days. amazing progress.

thank you Hashimoto-san for the awesome surf session. now you’re as black as me. haha. see you tomorrow morning before your flight back to japan. surf and fly. that’s my life!

and yes, it’s september and we get a special late summer swell. should continue for the next 4 days. perfect swell, perfect conditions, and perfect life. Gerry’s Point.