had a great time in fuji. only spent 5 hours there but lots of waves and lots of memories made. been loving the 5 fin ride. just makes surfing a lot more interesting.

everybody says i’m very lucky. i’ll take it! and this day, i was lucky again because the waves got perfect right when i pulled up.

Naoka is getting better. watching him catch bigger waves and ride it with much more confidence. this wave he caught was pretty dam perfect.

nice bottom turn.

usually Naoka would run me right over because he would look at me, but now he looks down the wave and passes me right by. thank goodness.

Toda-san has so much power. so when he puts his rail in the water on the bottom turn, i know he’s coming for the lip.

this is when all his weight plays a big part in his power surfing. if you see this, get out of the way!

then bam! nice off the lip! power surfing!

Takami-san on the other hand is very smooth. surfing with such grace.

she makes surfing look so dam easy. sweet ride!

nice last wave Takami-san!

i rode my 5’8 this day. can’t really do big turns, but good enough to feel the flow.

thank you guys for the awesome stopover in fuji. it’s always so nice to see you! we scored good waves and had a good time like always. hope to be back there soon.

Meru and Mateus at my house. Haha!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
No jetlag.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

so happy to come home and see Mickey Mateus today. he’s talking more and laughing a lot. this kid brings so much joy to my life.

a couple storms heading to hawaii now. perfect timing!

this is the first of two. i already know where i’ll be surfing.

ok, finished downloading off my gopro. Amanemu seems so long ago. it was such a great time to relax and get pampered. once again, the best service in the world.

and the suites were amazing! i didn’t want to leave my room!

and i already miss the onsen. i never use to like onsens until i jumped into this one.

and the great memories made in deep japan.

i will never forget this night at Nonchan’s. haven’t laughed that much in a while. haha! thank you again Inaida-san for the wonderful memories! can’t wait to see you guys again!