Don’t Worry, Everything will be OK!
Good morning 6:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Rain, clouds, maybe sun.
Warm and Typhoon weather.
Going storm surfing!
Have a wonderful day.

after my 10 day vacation, i’m happier than ever to be back to hawaii and start working again. super refreshed, super recharged, and super stoked on life. i really needed that vacation!

right when we jumped into the water today, i seen this eagle ray swimming right under us.

i just love encountering nature like this.

i’ve known Takahashi-san for a very long time. and we have so many mutual friends in chigasaki. so it was super fun surfing and talking story this morning.

Takahashi-san requested to surf the best spot today. so that’s where we went! and guess what? nobody was out all morning long. we had it to ourselves for 2 hours!!! score.

perfect right hand point break. so stoked to see Takahashi-san catching so many waves.

nice bottom turn in the clean water and blue sky paradise. i still can’t believe nobody was out.

this place always barrels no matter what. looking from the side is cool.

and looking from the front is cool too. either way, a barrel is a barrel.

i can’t believe how much i love to surf. i just want more and more!

rode behind Takahashi-san to get this epic diamond head shot. love it!

then went to eat some pho after.

i had the chicken noodle soup. so delicious.
thank you Takahashi-san for the awesome surf session. i had so much fun catching up and laughing so much. we sure have some cool surf friends back in chigasaki. hope to see everyone soon.

see the barrel.

look for the barrel.

get in the barrel.
always want to get barreled!!! so happy hawaii!!!