been surfing with Takei-san for a few years now. he’s a super good surfer from chiba that loves the challenge. we had all day so i already had plans in my mind. looked for a little spot to ourselves this morning to get a few fun waves. the waves were small but i know a spot that loves to barrel on the low tide. we paddled out and there was only 1 tourist out.

unlike the spot i surfed yesterday, this spot is much thicker. rounder barrels and 2x the power. i usually don’t go out here but since nobody was out, why not? look at this beautiful barrel!

the reason it barrels is because it’s very shallow. one mistake and you will hit the reef for sure. experts only.

Takei-san warmed up on a few shoulder high waves.

my first 3 waves were barrels. this was my first one.

this was my second one. i just love this view!

and this was my third one. this spot was probably the only spot barreling today. then all the local boys must have seen us getting all the good waves so it got really crowded after.

so we paddle down and surf another wave. absolute perfection!

nice cutback Takei-san! good job!

we surfed for almost 4 hours in the morning. then we had lunch. then it was time to look for something a little more challenging. headed to the east side because the high surf warning is up. we pulled up to this spot i haven’t surfed for 15 years. it was big, dangerous, big, and dangerous. a true challenge for any expert surfer. we had a session both of us will never forget! stay tuned for part 2.

am @ fun ala moana. so nice and perfect.

pm @ dangerous east side! so big and wild!
still alive and happy!

had a great time checking out the seafood in wakayama. see that red meat up there?

yeah, people still eating whale meat. it’s just a part of japanese culture. love it or leave it. just don’t say it.

brought back some Yamari shirasu to hawaii! my favorite!!!

then went around making a couple of deliveries. i’m so happy to be back home playing with all my toys.

when i was in taiwan, i dropped my iPhone. luckily i spent the extra $5 for the screen protector.

a simple screen protector can save you hundreds of dollars of damage.

glad to be back to my healthy lifestyle. kombucha followed by my yogurt bowl. then my day is started!
so stoked to see the hawaiian boys representing hawaii! right on Josh and Seth! proud of you guys!
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