well, my marathon surf sessions continue. 6.5 hours of surfing today and i’m loving it! woke up this morning thinking the typhoon was going to bring bad winds and weather. BUT, it turned out to be a beautiful day! where is the typhoon anyway?

had a blast with Kanehisa-san this morning. he’s a basketball player so he asked me “will me playing basketball help me to surf?” i told him “no, not at all.” haha, i was just being honest. anyway, once he got his first wave, he was super hooked! having so much fun!

this kid has great balance. rode so many perfect long rides.

thank you Kanehisa-san for the wonderful morning. welcome to the real world of surfing! and remember our talk this morning about dating a surfer girl. not unless you want to be her second priority. haha.

than went surfing with Hashimoto-san in the afternoon. right off the airplane this morning surfing this afternoon. a true surfer indeed.

last year, the waves were double overhead. so today, it was almost too easy for him. perfect rides and perfect surfing.

thank you for the wonderful afternoon Hashimoto-san. welcome back to hawaii, and welcome back to Kirby Boot Camp! get ready for more training tomorrow morning!

gosh, we scored all day again. perfect in the morning, and perfect in the afternoon. probably 6.5 hours in the water tomorrow too. better get to sleep. goodnight.

after our 4 hour power surf session, we were so hungry. headed to my favorite pizza place!

i just love it here because it’s custom made pizza. everything i love goes to my stomach. and it’s fun to make!

this was Takei-san’s custom pizza. very simple and healthy.

this was my pizza. very busy and messy. haha. i just pretty much loaded everything on it.

pizza and beer is a great combo!

then it was time for a challenge. this typhoon is sending some big east swells so we went to the east side. only one guy out and it was super big and wild.

i could tell Takei-san was really nervous. anybody would have been nervous because of the rocks, current, winds, and sharks.

once we made it out to the lineup, it was a challenge to get a good wave. Takei-san caught a big one and surfed it good! i was so stoked for him!

then coming in was the hard part. we had to calculate the current, wind, sets, and rocks in order to make it back safely to the little channel with jagged rocks on both sides. i was laughing the whole time because Takei-san was freaking out. haha. i’m sure this was a first for him.
this spot is called “Suicides.” yes, because it’s like suicide to even paddle out there on a day like this. and it’s right in front of a sacred Heiau (ancient hawaiian place of worship). not to mention, big sharks have been seeing roaming around there many times. and the government posted a High Surf Warning this morning for the east side. of course i didn’t tell Takei-san any of this because i didn’t want to scare him any more. haha. anyway, great job Takei-san! you are a very brave man!

She’s here!
Good morning 6:20am.
HIGH WIND WARNING!
Ala Moana waist high and windy off shore.
Diamond Head chest high and very windy.
Trade winds at 35mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going typhoon surfing!
Have a wonderful day!