i get asked over and over “where is your favorite surf spot in the world?” my answer is always, indonesia, samoa, south africa, philippines, and most of all, japan. i’ve probably surfed the best waves in my life all around japan. so many secret spots that i was taken too all these years, all secrets that i will keep secrets forever. BUT, for consistency, weather, water, and aloha, no place in the world tops hawaii. and the more time i spend here, the more i realize it.

i use to leave hawaii each and every summer because i thought the waves were junky on the south shore. but recently, our summers have been incredible. so incredible that i don’t want to go anywhere! look at this beautiful wave yesterday morning. i was about to duck dive this wave and thought to myself “wow, this is amazing!”

and my afternoon session even more amazing. i pay thousands of dollars and travel half way around the world to surf waves like this. what was i thinking? yesterday was another mentawai day right here in ala moana.

and to see my friends in the lineup and surf with them is awesome. Matty Liu, Uncle Scotty, and Nick Mita sharing barrels after barrels. lots of aloha in these incredible surfers.

after taking these photos yesterday, i thought about upgrading my professional camera gear. made me want to get back in the water and take fisheye shots again. i use to do this everyday and always loved the results. now i’ll just have to save $10,000 for the equipment and maybe start all over again.

i’m a fish. without the ocean, i would dry up physically and mentally. that’s scary.

trying some new angles. just love how the water flows off the swallow tail. i tell everybody that the back foot is your gas pedal. push on it hard and your board will go into turbo mode. and stop pushing off your front foot because that is your brake.

and when you push the gas, you will throw some serious spray. try it and i’m sure you will like it!

ok, get ready for another week of waves and waves. and also more photos and photos. i’m so excited to surf and shoot again. and so excited to do some exploring this week!

omg, the south swell is here in full swing! solid 5′ and super nice barrels if you know where to find them. surfed this morning at maxing out rock piles. when i picked up Yoshida-san from his hotel this morning, i asked him “what’s the biggest waves you surfed? he said “maybe chest high?” i said “well, today is your lucky day. you will ride the biggest wave of your life.” then we pull up to the beach and the waves where huge. super hard to get out but if there is a will, there is a way. right? i could tell Yoshida-san was super nervous, but my speciality is to bring out the best of you. so i told him, “hey, i’ll be right on your side so don’t worry, you won’t die. he looked at me as if i was crazy.

we somehow made it past the double overhead closeouts. then i see a big one coming and i say “turn around and GO!” he took off and rode the wave of his life!

then he rode it perfectly. caught another big one, and another big one. it was the super session of his life. i asked him “how was it?” he replied “i thought i was going to die! but it was amazing.” haha.

this was Yoshida-san’s expression after that perfect ride. surprised and happy look? haha.

then he caught another good one. Yoshida-san’s been surfing for 5 years, but today his new surfing life will start again. bigger and better.

i really wish i could take a photo of people when they are freaking out scared. haha. it’s the totally opposite of this. so seeing fear turn into happiness makes me feel so good.

awesome job Yoshida-san!

then i asked Yoshida-san if he wanted to eat pho for lunch. he said “i don’t like pho. i tried it once in japan and i didn’t like it.” i told him “you haven’t tried real pho in hawaii before.” so we went and he loved it. i must have taken a thousand people to eat pho, and every single person loved it.

been going to another place recently. no tourists so it’s as local as it gets. you won’t find this place in a guide book.

then ended it with a cool shave ice. the perfect ending!

after i dropped Yoshida-san off, i looked at the sky and Mr. Sun was telling me “get your ass back in the ocean. you know where to go! now go and get barreled!” so i listened like a good boy.

and i pull up to my secret spot and only 3 guys catching the sets. taking turns and loving life. the waves weren’t the best, maybe because i am spoiled? i was telling one of my friends, “ah, waves aren’t that good, i’m going somewhere else.” five minutes later…

i see the ocean moving, i paddle way to the outside and with one eye watching the huge set coming, and with the other eye watching the wave almost break over Mayuki. i watch Mayuki and she survived the swell, then i focus on the swell. turn around, take off, bottom turn, and pull into the biggest blue room. i’m so deep, i’m on the foam ball thinking “OMG.” i pump my board while in the barrel, thinking “wow!” then the foam ball pushes my board and me out. i see my friend Scotty looking at me with big eyes. i look at him back with bigger eyes. he said “omg, that was crazy!” i tell him “that was the craziest thickest barrel i’ve ever gotten out here on the south shore. and i’ve been doing this for over 30 years!!” it was freaking amazing! stayed out for 3 hours and was just loving life to the fullest. good night.

Barreling day of surf! I saw this on my way home. Ala Moana Bowls front row seats!
I surfed 5 hours and got the best South Shore barrel of my life! OMG, so happy! Amazing photos coming soon!