had a super good session with Seigo-san. very nice guy, very kind, very gentle, very hard worker, and very good surfer.

and good to see Seigo-san trimmed down. he lost a lot of weight and it shows in his surfing. much faster than before!

caught some good waves all morning long.

if you think Seigo-san has a good view, look at my view! watching your friend ripping right in front of you with diamond head in the back? it’s like a dream!

caught a couple myself.

cutback time!
thank you Seigo-san for the awesome surf! see you soon in Marutaya Ramen in wakayama!

Last nights dinner! Abalone, Scallops, and Lamb. Awesome!
Good morning 6am.
North shore waist/chest high and clean.
South shore knee/waist high and clean.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Surf and shoot!
Have a wonderful day!

i left my house at dark this morning with the truck full with 8 boards ranging from 6’0 to 11’0. and just got home now at 7pm. one of the longest, yet most fun day of my life. it just amazes me how surfing and the ocean can bring out the golden smiles in everyone. i just love it!

Seigo-san and i had a great morning session. was so stoked to see him catching so many good waves again! surfing super good and super happy! then he requested loco moco for lunch so i went to this cool place where i know the chef, walked in the kitchen, and asked “hey chef, can you make us 2 loco moco’s?” he said “of course!”

and like always, this is the best homemade loco moco on the whole island! omg, i want to eat another one right now!

then went surfing in the afternoon with a wonderful group of 8. then for a snorkel and a drinks on the ocean. listened to “shimanchu nu takara” on the way in singing our happy hearts out as the sun set. a very happy day filled with surf and friends. can’t wait to do the same thing tomorrow!
i have 2 cameras full with photos but don’t have any energy to work on it now. will try again tomorrow. stay tuned.