was playing around with the turtle yesterday. he just kept on swimming under me while i was waiting for a wave.

Kitahama-san caught wave after wave after wave. so many perfect waves all day long. he also went from going straight to turning right or left. a couple of levels up for sure!

he even did some cross steps! give him a few more sessions and he’ll be walking up to the nose. awesome!

longboard or short board, i love it all!

couldn’t believe how empty it was today. at one point, there were only the 2 of us in the whole lineup at rock piles. where is everyone??? thank you Kitahama-san for our awesome uncrowded surf sessions today!

another one bites the dust. a guy from hong kong tries to smuggle drugs into indonesia and gets caught. now he will die sitting in front of the firing squad. i don’t understand why anyone would smuggle drugs into a country that gives drug smugglers the death penalty.

a wrong choice in life can cause your own death. hey people, there is a death penalty for smuggling drugs to indonesia. and the courts over there don’t give a shit what country you’re from or how good our lawyer is. so don’t do it!

The unbeaten gets beaten.
Nothing is impossible.
Good morning 6am.
Small waves.
Waist-chest high everywhere.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Surf all day.
Have a wonderful day!

ok, i just got home from a long day of surfing. surfed for 6 hours and had a super good time. then went to my friends house right after to catch the UFC 193 fight.

the main event was Undefeated and Unbeatable Champion Ronda Rousey vs. #7 Holly Holm. the whole world knew who would win. Rousey of course. so the sucker bet would be on Holm. Rousey the MMA champion, and Holm the boxing champion.

from round 1, i had a feeling Holm might win. she just out boxed Rousey. and i couldn’t understand why Rousey being the judo champion she is would stand toe to toe against a world champion boxer? she looked like the amateur fighter in this one.

then the devastating kick to the neck and Rousey was knocked out cold. the biggest upset in the history of MMA. and the biggest sports upset since Buster Douglas knocked out Mike Tyson in japan many years ago. some people won money, most people lost. but the biggest loser was Rousey having to give up her belt. and also she will lose millions in endorsements, movies, and other opportunities she had before this loss. she will no longer go down as the biggest dominant fighter in the history of MMA. crazy news and stoked i didn’t miss this fight.

omg, it was a super amazing blue day today! was in the ocean pretty much all day long. just came in to eat lunch and back out.

had a great surf day with Kitahama-san watching him catch so many long waves.

we went to eat pho at Pho Saigon. so good!

today i thought i was in Cuba again for a minute. a classic car in the parking lot at ala moana. cool!
well, another long surfing day tomorrow so better get to sleep. exciting day of surf and upsets. love it! good night.