check out this photo i took the other day! super cool turtle cleaning station. turtles come into the fish schools to have them clean the algae off them. so cool to watch. so stoked to take my all time best turtle photo!

check out this breakfast i ate yesterday. i was craving steak and eggs. this one was a juicy filet mignon cooked medium rare.

finally decided to travel. i was supposed to leave last week thursday but stayed in hawaii because of 2 reasons. one was the big south swell. staying here was the smartest move of my surfing life. if i didn’t stay, i would have been less 30 barrels in my life. that would suck. second was because of the super hurricane off mexico. didn’t want to fly through something like that. tried to go to asia but all flights are totally full. so i picked up my book last night and now i better study spanish right now. going to hang to in mexico and then off to another country so deep that nobody speaks english. no english, no internet, no phone, and no experience. haha. i’m looking for some total culture shock and i can’t wait!

come tomorrow, i’ll be watching the sunset and sunrise from another side of the world! bon voyage! opps, i mean Adios Amigos!

North Shore Starting soon!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Super good conditions.
No wind.
Super sunny.
Going flying.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome afternoon surfing with Aoi. so stoked to see his progression. after each wave, i try to encourage him to do better and better. he’s a very good listener and it’s showing in his surfing.

the key to surfing better backside is to stay low. keep your knees bent on the bottom turn just like this.

so when you go up the wave, your knees are still bent enough for you to extend off the top.

this is where you push the tail. towards the end of the session, i seen Aoi get some really good backside snaps in. bigger sprays off the top and it must have felt good because it looked good. good surfing today kid!

and i had a blast surfing too. after i got back home tonight, i realized that my body is over surfed. just so tired and needs a break. so hey, i’m taking a break from the ocean starting tomorrow. yes, i know there are 2 more south swells on the way but i’m pretty sure i had enough.

the drive back in is always so amazing. the perfect way to end a perfect day. 2 surf sessions today with lots of good rides.

good job Aoi. just remember what we talked about today. focus on that and you will succeed!