here it is! the official poster boy Seth Moniz for the Vans HIC Pro at Sunset Beach which starts on october 28th. the is circulation around the world as every aspiring pro will enter this event to qualify for the triple crown of surfing. a big start to the big winter season. congratulations Seth! and hope you win it!

so stoked to plant something and watch it grow everyday. now it’s so big, healthy, and blooming. i don’t even have to look if it’s flowering because as soon as i open my door, i can smell the sweet gardenias.

then i bring some into the house and make my house smell so good.

how much do you have to save each day to have $1M at age 65? look at this graph and you can figure it out. it’s totally possible. but the sad thing is when you turn age 65, you can’t even buy a house in hawaii for $1M.
last, if you’re old like me, you will know about Fate Yanagi. if you don’t, that means you are too young, or you don’t know the deep roots of hawaiian culture. Fate Yanagi is probably the most sought out girl ever since the 1970’s. “Tell Fate Yanagi I love her, tell Fate Yanagi I need her, tell Fate Yanagi no go cry, or no go out, with Mits Funai.” haha. i know that whole song word for word by heart.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLNAQ1-rmPk[/youtube]

Nature is Wonderful!
Good morning 6:40am.
South shore swell continues!! OMG!
Perfect head high at Ala Moana.
Perfect overhead at Diamond Head.
No wind so epic conditions.
Super sunny and warm. Just like summer.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday was amazing. couldn’t have timed the surf and sessions any better. looked at bowls on the way out and it had a morning sickness bump on the waves. so we went searching for something cleaner.

Carter, Reid, Yuko-chan, and i enjoyed the whole morning to ourselves. just taking turns laughing, surfing, and ripping. nothing beats surfing a perfect south swell with just a few friends.

Carter with the hand in the water epic bottom turn.

Reid with the epic backside grab rail barrel ride.

Yuko-chan on the epic frontside hand drag bottom turn. it’s amazing how fun the waves were. after our 3.5 hour session, we pulled up anchor and headed back to the harbor because everybody had things to do in the afternoon.

Reid’s new toy. the classic old school Penn reel.

and the old school lure. something will bite this for sure!

on the way back to the harbor, we stopped by Big Rights to check out the waves and the boys. super stoked to see Ronnie Yamada and the boys out so we decided to jump in, say hello, and just catch one wave each. right as we got to the lineup, the waves turned ON! super big sets, super good swell direction, and super good winds producing the biggest barrels! i got barreled on my first wave, paddled back out, and asked Reid “hey, can you reschedule your afternoon appointment?” he went back to the boat, made a phone call, and rescheduled. we ended up surfing the best 3 hours of perfect waves. i lost count on my barrels after 10 as every single wave was barreling big time! it was super empty so we scored! one of the top 5 best all time sessions of my 30 years of surfing Big Rights. i was so stoked!

then passed by Bowls on the way back in. super crowded and very dirty water. yuck.

bodyboarder finding the shade.

Mike Akima on a good one.
well, 2 more south swells this week. north swell this week. east swell this week. waves everywhere with perfect off shore winds. hard to leave paradise right now!