omg! check out this biggest hurricane ever recorded about to hit mexico! el nino continues.

waking up to this is depressing. another sailboat bites the dust. more reef killed, more gas and oil in the ocean, and more headaches. they should close the ala wai channel at night when the waves get big like this. it happens just way to often.

but great to wake up to another amazing day of big surf! the waves still pumping! huge ground swells making this one of the best swells of the season.

here’s the sequence of the day. went to run away from the crowds yesterday morning. surfed with friends for 3 hours and had a blast. had it to ourselves! we were taking turns and having so much fun. figuring out the waves, and figuring out how to make the best out of the wave. Reid setting up for the epic backside power snap.

this is where you want to be when you torque your body. on the top of the wave putting all your weight on the back foot. knees bent so when it’s time to extend, you can push the tail as hard as you want.

just like this.

and when you complete the turn, it feel so freaking great! awesome surfing Reid!

we were out on the boat from 7:30am to 4:30pm. totally unplanned. just went out for a quick morning session but ended up surfing 2 sessions totaling more than 6 hours. yesterday was one of my best surfing days ever. just to have fun with friends and getting barreled all day is like a dream come true. a dream i will never ever forget! oh, and coming back into the harbor watching Legend World Champion Derek Ho getting barreled was awesome.

when i got home at 5:30pm, all i wanted to do was eat and sleep. but, i made plans with my middle school classmates at 6:30. one drink lead to another and the next thing you know, i had a lot of Don Julio Tequila in my stomach. at 2am, i was feeling like a world champion surfer. haha. thank you to all my friends yesterday for the wonderful time. let’s do it all over again!

OMG! Again??? Luxury lost.
Good morning 7am.
High Surf Advisory!
3-5′ South Shore swell continues.
Ala Moana going off!
Light winds.
Super sunny.
Perfect waves.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday had a blast with Nakayama-san. super happy guy that’s been a surfer for 19 years.

when i picked him up, i told him “hey, the waves are big today.” he was stoked to have his first hawaiian reef session.

i’d say had some solid 10′ faces on the waves. some huge ones we had to go under. some made it perfectly, some not. this one was perfect! hard to find big waves at bowls with the water this clean.

look how big this wave at bowls was! haha! imagine surfing beach breaks in japan for 19 years and all of a sudden surf the best wave on the south shore of oahu. this is way overhead and about to barrel!

then took out Kim in the afternoon. Kim has been surfing a few times here in hawaii. but on this day, she caught the best wave of her life! i could see how stoked she was when paddling back out.

Chris got a few good ones too.
this past month, i’ve heard over and over “omg, that was the best wave of my life!!!” that makes me so happy. but what makes me more happy is to see the smiles on everyones faces. it’s a feeling only a surfer can experience. i still have that feeling in me. i still feel that way. and i’m still searching for the ultimate wave. can’t wait!