i wake up early this morning and hear about the shark attack in waikiki. waikiki??? really? i know about the lanikai shark attack, but waikiki? it’s making the headline news around the world because it’s the first shark attack in waikiki. and 2 attacks in a day?

they took the victim to the hospital last night in stable condition.

then the local news still going on and on about the attack.

i thought to myself “omg, it finally happened!” i see sharks in waikiki all the time but never thought it would attack a surfer.

picked up Ito-san this morning and told him about the attack. didn’t want too, but just thought i should be straight up. but we went surfing anyway.

the waves were still huge!!! solid overhead sets and barreling. here is Ito-san ducking a big one.

good to see local Bob Ito getting the good ones today.

and also good to see local Troy on a clean one. everybody scored again today!

and heard Shun was ripping in the ISA World Surfing Games. my sister was on the beach and took this photo.
got home late this afternoon and heard the news again. come to find out, it wasn’t a shark attack. they said it was an moray eel attack. to tell you the truth, i don’t know what to believe. sometimes the news is right, sometimes the news is wrong, and sometimes the news hides things. to us surfers, we all understand the risks of surfing. and it’s a lot safer than driving on the roads these days. good night.

Today at Ala Moana Bowls!
Big waves.
Good conditions.
Many waves.
Big barrels.
We so happy!

early morning barrels feel the best! imagine coming out of a barrel and seeing the most beautiful view in the world. you really can’t beat this.

oh, and doing slash feels great too!

Uemura-san on a good right! pure stoke!

i truly believe that surfing brings out the best smiles in everyone.

imagine surfing a beach break for your whole surfing career. then coming to hawaii and surfing the best point break on the south shore. then catching the biggest and best ride of your life. days like this a surfer will never forget for the rest of his or her life.

great job Uemura-san. keep on surfing dude!

Mamiko-san tried surfing a few times but didn’t really stand up. so yesterday, i could tell she was nervous. as we paddled out, i told to relax and be calm. i explain to everybody that being nervous doesn’t do you any good. if you let your nerves take over, you will forget everything and your body won’t function properly. not good for surfing. but if you put the nerves aside, everything will be fine. after a couple waves, the nerves went away and everything was fine! so simple.

great surfing, great smile, and great day. keep on surfing Mamiko-san!