omg, today was yet another perfect south swell surfing day. perfect waves, perfect weather, and perfect hawaii. you just can’t beat it! all surfers very happy!

i got a letter today. a free clock and 12 months worth of surfing magazine for $7. like i said, magazines pretty much have to give themselves away these days just in order to keep advertisers. no circulation means no advertisers. so i’m doing my part to keep this amazing magazine alive by subscribing today.

it supposed to rain all week? where is the rain?

had a great time surfing with Ikuko-san.

and i had a great time looking for barrels. trying to pull in with my 10’0 longboard. haha. look how glassy and perfect it was!!!

super cool surfer girl from Hokkaido. loving the warm weather here in hawaii.

so happy to eat my favorite mushroom chicken plate today.

thank you Ikuko-san and Kei-san for the wonderful morning!

went to check out Kewalo’s after and it was freaking going off!!! perfect rights and lefts!

thank you Ikuko-san for the japanese snacks!

next week coming is my 1 week vacation. still trying to figure out where to go? watching these typhoons in the pacific closely. watching the tunas in central america closely. looking at an african safari closely. and looking at all flight possibilities closely. so many options, so little time.

sitting on the beach with Ito-san yesterday early morning. getting nervous as the sets were huge! it’s a far paddle out so lots of time to get nervous. haha. it reminds me of my own personal experiences paddling out to huge sunset and pipeline 30 years ago. thank you Hikaru for the photo.

the morning conditions were perfect! super glassy long walls. get barreled, or do an off the lip. your choice.

Ito-san on a nice one. once the nerves settled, he managed to get a few good waves. i really like this photo. shows the commitment.

even the rights were fun. you just have to know which one to go on. if you do, you will get the thrill of your life! great job Ito-san!

look how glassy it was. it’s like your surfboard being a pen and drawing long lines on a canvas. art in pure form.

then i went home and took care of my garden. can’t believe how big my gardenia plant and two avocado trees got with all this wonderful rain and sun. every time i come home, i pass here, stop, and look at my plants. watching them grow makes me so happy.

Chinese Traffic Jam
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana head high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
North shore small.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!